Daylily in the first year of planting. Daylily planting and care in the open field in autumn. How to cover flowers for the winter

13.12.2021

Such a perennial herbaceous plant as a daylily (Hemerocallis), which is also called a red day, belongs to the subfamily of the daylily family Xanthorrheaceae. It comes from East Asia. Mankind has known such a plant for a very long time, but for the first time they started talking about it in science only in 1753. K. Linnaeus called this flower "Hemerocallis", this name includes 2 Greek words "hemera" - "day, day" and "callos " - "beauty". In Russia, this flower is called krasodnev, which means beauty that lives only one day. Quite spectacular are not only those species and varieties of daylilies that are cultivated, but also those that grow in the wild. You should also be aware that such a flower is very undemanding in care, and it is often called a lazy gardener's plant, but this statement is true only for old varieties. For the past few years, this plant has been very fashionable, and all this is thanks to the efforts of breeders from Australia and America. New varieties are no longer so unpretentious, but they are much more beautiful than the old ones.

The daylily has cord-like, most often thick and fleshy adventitious roots, which are designed to save the plant during the dry period. Broad-linear basal two-row leaf blades can be straight or arcuately curved. Large, six-part flowers, usually funnel-shaped, yellow, orange, or brownish red. Inflorescences consist of several flowers. At the same time, no more than three flowers can bloom, the duration of flowering is more than 20 days. On a bush there can be either 1 or several leafy peduncles, the length of which, depending on the variety, can vary from 0.3 to 1 meter (sometimes higher). The fruit is a trihedral box, inside which are seeds. Gardeners cultivate both natural species and a large number of cultivars and forms.

Types and varieties of daylily with photos and names

natural views

Natural species of daylily absolutely all have a spectacular appearance, which is why they are so popular among gardeners. And these flowers are distinguished by their undemanding care and unpretentiousness. Also, such plants are resistant to diseases and harmful insects, they are drought-resistant and perfectly tolerate waterlogging, and these flowers are also durable. The most popular types are: red daylily, lemon yellow, yellow, Dumorier and Middendorff. Description of several natural species:

Sharply curved dark green rigid leaf plates reach a width of 30 mm. The height of the branched in the upper part of the peduncles is about 100 centimeters. The diameter of asymmetric flowers is about 12 centimeters, in the middle they are orange with a brownish-reddish tint, they have no smell. Flowering is observed in July. Cultivated since 1890.

This species can be found in nature only in Central China. The shape of the flower is very similar to a white lily, it is distinguished by night flowering. The height of the bush is about 0.8–0.9 m. High flower stalks branch in the upper part. The flowers have a pleasant and strong smell, they reach 14 centimeters in length and 12 centimeters in width. Flowering is observed in the second half of the summer period and has a duration of about 40 days.

Day lily Dumortier (wolf locust)

In nature, you can meet in Japan, the Far East, Northeast China and Korea. The height of the compact bush is about 0.7 m. The width of the rich green leaf plates is about 20–25 mm. Peduncles are located at the level of leaf plates. Dense inflorescences consist of 2-4 wide-open orange-yellowish flowers. up to 5 centimeters in diameter. This species is often used in their work by breeders. Cultivated since 1830.

Garden daylily or hybrid daylily

This is the generalized name of hybrid varieties, today there are more than 60 thousand of them. Most of the work in the creation of such varieties was invested by breeders from Australia and America, they created such species that differ in the shape of the flower, the presence or absence of smell, flowering time, height and color. In this case, the flowers can be painted in a variety of colors and shades. The garden daylily has a complex and rather voluminous classification, in which such flowers are divided according to the length of the peduncle, the size and shape of the flower, color, flowering time, type of vegetation and many other features, however, this scientific work is mostly necessary for specialists, and a simple gardener is not necessary to study it. Popular types and varieties of hybrid daylily:

Daylilies of the double group

Terry daylilies that have additional perianth petals. All available varieties are highly decorative. For example:

a) Double cutie. The flower in diameter reaches 10 centimeters. Their throat is green, and the petals are the color of chartreuse. Flowering is medium-early.

b) Double Dream. The bush reaches a height of 0.6 m, the leaf plates are basal. Flower diameter about 12 centimeters, apricot petals, dark orange throat.

v) Double Red Royal. Large dark red flowers, their petals are similar to royal velvet. Flowers have an unusual shape. So, they have large outer petals, and inside there is an openwork rosette, consisting of smaller petals. One bush can grow up to 30 peduncles. At the same time, up to 10-20 flowers grow on one peduncle. This variety is re-flowering.

Spider daylilies (spider)

This includes varieties whose flowers have segments slightly longer than wide, they have a shape similar in appearance to a spider. Varieties:

a) helix. A large spider has a green throat, this color gradually changes to yellow petals, and their tips are dark crimson. This flower looks very impressive.

b) Arms to Heaven. The color of the throat of this giant is greenish-yellow, and the long petals are painted red-purple. Flowering is lush. The bush reaches a height of 0.9 m. From 16 to 20 flowers grow on one peduncle.

v) Free Healing. Quite a large spider of a yellow-cream color, the throat is red. The petals are thin and strongly elongated. Up to 45 flowers can grow on a peduncle.

fragrant daylily

Includes plants of various shapes, sizes and colors. Flowers have a very high decorative effect, as well as a pleasant aroma. Varieties:

a) Apple Spring. The light pink petals have a yellowish-green edge that is strongly corrugated. The flower in diameter reaches 15 centimeters. The peduncle reaches a height of 0.65 m, about 28 fragrant flowers can grow on it.

b) Ode to Faith. The central stripe of the petal is painted in rich yellow with a pinkish tint. The edge of the petals is golden corrugated. Throat green. The peduncle reaches a height of 0.84 m, the flowers have a delicate smell and a diameter of about 15 centimeters.

v) Deciduous Daylily Stella do Oro. Corrugated funnel-shaped flowers, they are fragrant and painted in dark yellow, reach a diameter of 7 centimeters. Flowering is lush, and it can be observed throughout the summer period. This variety has received a large number of awards from the American Daylily Society. It can be cultivated both in the garden and as a border plant, as well as grown at home.

Among the numerous varieties and forms of daylily, there are those that can be conditionally called white. For instance:

a) Apple Blossom White. A yellowish-white flower with heavily ruffled petal edges. It reaches a height of 0.83 m, on peduncles there are 2 branches with 25 buds.

b) Ruffled Parchment. The ruffled white flower has a gradual transition from creamy white to yellow in the throat area. The diameter of very fragrant flowers is about 13 centimeters, the peduncle reaches a height of 5 centimeters.

v) Granny Smith. Petals are almost white, they have corrugated edges of green color.

It is interesting that there is no pure white daylily among natural species and varieties, nor among hybrid ones. In this regard, experts introduced the expression "near white", which translates as "almost white". In varieties and species that are called almost white, the petals have a very light melon, lavender, cream, pink or yellow color.

At the moment, experts are working to increase the diameter and doubleness of the flowers, as well as to increase the corrugation of the petals. At the same time, daylily is a very good material for work, so very soon new spectacular varieties and forms in large quantities may appear.

Growing features

Under natural conditions, the daylily prefers to grow in the shade of shrubs on forest edges. In this regard, it can be assumed that in the garden it should be grown in a shaded place. This will be the right choice if the garden is located in Africa, Australia or in the southern part of France. If you plant such a plant in a shaded place in the middle lane, then it will not have enough sunlight and heat, especially for hybrid varieties. In order for flowering to be most spectacular, the plant needs a lot of sunlight.

The soil for planting this plant can be used absolutely any. However, in the event that you want the flowers to be as beautiful as possible, then you will need a special soil mixture, for this you need to add sand to the clay soil, add clay to the sandy soil, and compost should be added to the podzolic-soddy soil. Nutritious, well-drained loam is best suited for planting. Remember that the soil should be slightly acidic or neutral. In the event that for some reason you cannot make good drainage on the site, then raised beds will be needed for such flowers.

Flowers that go with daylilies

On the garden plot, the daylily is planted as a solo plant, as well as as a group plant. Such plants look great against the background of shrubs and various trees, for example: panicled hydrangeas, viburnum and bamboo. To create spectacular borders, dense bush varieties are used, and near stone hills, on the banks of rivers or other reservoirs, it is best to plant small-flowered undersized species. Such flowers will decorate the winter garden, and they can also stand in the cut for a long time.

When planting, it should be noted that at the end of the summer period, the plants lose their decorative effect. In this regard, it is necessary to foresee in advance what flowers to plant them next to, so that they can divert attention from the yellowing and fading daylily. For this, experts suggest using physiostegia, spotted loosestrife, ornamental cereals and yarrows of various colors.

Planting a daylily in open ground

What time to plant

Such flowers are planted in spring, summer and autumn, the exact time of planting directly depends on the climate in your area. In the event that winter in the region comes rapidly and very early, then daylilies planted in autumn may not have time to adapt to new conditions before frost, because it takes them about 4 weeks to root. However, in the event that garden forms were chosen for planting, in which the flowering period is medium or early, then in the middle latitudes they will be able to quickly take root and prepare for winter. You can also protect plants from freezing by sprinkling the area with a layer of mulch.

How to plant

Before proceeding with the planting of the planting material purchased in the store, it must be immersed in water or in mineral fertilizer, which must be highly diluted, for several hours. This will make the roots swollen and revitalized, in which case you can easily select unhealthy roots and carefully remove them. The remaining roots must be shortened to a length of 20 to 30 centimeters.

For each bush or delenka, a separate planting hole should be prepared, the depth of which should be about 0.3 m. Also remember that this flower will grow in one place for a long time, and during this time it will grow in diameter up to 0.5–0, 7 m, so try to leave such a distance between the bushes so that they are not crowded. In each of the prepared holes, pour a soil mixture consisting of peat, sand and humus into a slide, then add phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or wood ash mixed with superphosphate. Then you need to place the root system of the plant in the hole and carefully straighten it, while making sure that there is no empty space under it. After that, fill the hole with soil, but not to the top. Then, holding the bush with your hand, tamp the soil well and pour so much water into the hole so that it is full. In the event that the liquid is quickly absorbed into the soil, this means that the earth is poorly compacted, so pour dry soil into the hole and compact it well again. Then you need to fill the hole to the brim with soil. When planting, make sure that the root neck of the flower is not deeper into the ground by more than 20-30 mm, otherwise growth retardation may occur, as well as the appearance of rot. If you planted a daylily, following all the rules, then there should be enough water in the holes for the bush to take root completely.

Such a flower can be grown in the same place for about 15 years, but over time, the quality of flowering will deteriorate. If you see that your previously luxurious and already middle-aged bush has become less spectacular (the flowers were crushed, and there were fewer of them on the peduncle), then this means that it is time for a transplant. To begin with, dig a bush along its outer border and carefully remove it along with an earthen clod, while trying not to injure the roots. The root system must be washed out with a garden hose, and then it can be carefully divided into separate fans. If you have certain skills, then you can divide the bush with your hands, but if you use a knife or pruner, then the cut points must be treated with a fungicide. It is recommended to plant and transplant on a cloudy day, but if you have to wait long enough for the right weather, then it is recommended to dig bushes or delenki in the sand, where they can stay for about half a month. Before planting a copy, you need to shorten the roots, and you should also cut off all dead and rotten ones. Then cut the leaves to a height of 15-20 centimeters in the shape of an inverted "V". Plant the prepared delenka in a permanent place.

Daylilies are very beautiful, and they do not require any special care. For example, they do not need frequent watering. It is recommended to carry out such a procedure only during a long drought, while a large amount of water must be poured under each bush so that the soil is well saturated with it. Daylilies should be watered in the evening. The number of top dressings directly depends on whether the soil is nutritious or not, in connection with this, the gardener must independently calculate how many times he will have to fertilize, but remember that such flowers cannot be overfed. However, it should be borne in mind that 2 top dressings are mandatory. The first time you need to feed the flowers in the spring, after the leaves start to grow, for this they use mineral fertilizer. Dry granules must be distributed over the surface of the site, and then embedded in the ground using a rake, then the ground must be watered. The second time it is necessary to feed the plant in August 4 weeks after the peak of flowering. This will help make future flowering more lush, since it is at this time that the buds are laid. Experienced gardeners recommend using Kemira-plus for top dressing. The main thing to remember is that fertilized soil must be watered.

Mulching the site is also very important for the daylily. This will help to avoid soil compaction above the root collar. The central part of the bush should be covered with a three-centimeter layer of mulch, using coarse river sand for this. In the event that the soil is poor, then it is recommended to use compost or peat as a mulch, which is sprinkled with aisles, and for nutrient soil it is better to choose tree bark or needles. Mulch the soil in order to protect the plant from sudden changes in temperature, to retain moisture and to reduce the amount of weeding. The thickness of the mulch layer should be about 6-7 centimeters. In the event that the soil is not mulched, you will have to regularly loosen its surface and remove weeds. Also, do not forget to cut off the flowers that have begun to fade in a timely manner.

In August, during transplantation, do not forget to divide the bushes. This method of reproduction is described in more detail above. Seeds can also be used for propagation, but such plants are not able to retain parental characteristics. In this regard, daylilies are grown from seeds mainly by breeders. Also, the daylily can be propagated in another way, while you do not have to dig out the main bush. However, this method is only suitable for plants with loose bushes. After the bush is 3 or 4 years old, it will be possible to separate the daughter outlet with a fully formed root system. To do this, take a very sharp shovel and put it in place of the future incision, placing it strictly vertically. Then sharply press on the shovel with your foot, which will allow you to cut off the necessary part, which must also be cut from below and pulled out of the soil. Places of cuts and damage will need to be sprinkled with crushed coal or wood ash. The daylily can be propagated in this way in spring (when the leaves are just starting to grow) or in autumn (when the leaves are cut).

Daylilies are classified into deciduous (dormant), semi-evergreen and evergreen.

Sleepers (Dormant)

In autumn, the leaf plates turn yellow and wither. The flower is at rest until the onset of the spring period.

Evergreen

In mid-latitudes, it has a dormant period that lasts 15–20 days.

Semi-evergreen (Semievergreen)

If the climate in the region is mild, then they are more similar in behavior to evergreens, and in areas with frosty winters, its leaves turn yellow, but they do not stop growing completely.

In deciduous plants, before winter, it is recommended to cut off the aerial part, while the length of the remaining foliage should be about 15–20 centimeters. They do not need shelter, as they are frost-resistant. But in the northern and eastern regions of Russia, semi-evergreen and evergreen species most often freeze out during winters with little snow, especially if the air temperature drops below minus 20 degrees. In this regard, in the fall it is better to take care of the shelter of such daylilies, as well as recently planted bushes. You can cover with spruce branches, sawdust, dried leaves or straw. At the very beginning of spring, the shelter must be removed, since such flowers awaken quite early.

Daylilies are valuable ornamental crops due to the unusual shape of the inflorescences and exquisite aroma. At the same time, they are distinguished by their unpretentiousness in care, and perennial varieties will serve as an exquisite decoration of the garden for a long time.

Despite the unpretentiousness of daylilies, it is desirable to create optimal growth conditions for them: choose the right site for planting and provide proper care. You will find the necessary information for growing these flowers in this article.

Characteristics of a daylily flower

A distinctive feature of the daylily is its high resistance to drought. This characteristic feature of the culture is provided by fleshy and thick adventitious roots, which are able to provide the plant with the necessary moisture even in dry weather.

Figure 1. External features of the daylily

The plant has large flowers of yellow, orange or red-brown hue (Figure 1). As a rule, they are collected in small inflorescences, but at the same time no more than three opened buds can appear on the plant, and the duration of flowering of each is about three weeks.

Species and varieties

There are a lot of varieties of daylily, and it will be difficult to describe them all. Therefore, we will focus only on the most popular.

Note: Only yellow, orange and the Middendorf variety are classified as natural species. All other varieties (about 60 thousand) are hybrids bred by breeders (Figure 2).

Daylily varieties are usually divided into several types (groups):

Terry- differ in additional petals near the bud (varieties Double Dream, Double Classic, Night Amber).
arachnids got its name due to large inflorescences, the petals of which are shaped like spiders (Grape Witch, Start Twister, etc.).
fragrant hybrids are distinguished not only by beautiful inflorescences, but also by an exquisite aroma. This group includes varieties Apple Spring, Pandora Box, Stella de Oro, etc.

Figure 2. The main types of flower: 1 - terry, 2 - arachnid, 3 - fragrant

In addition, there are separate varieties of white and variegated flowers, which, like other species, are unpretentious and highly decorative.

Growing daylilies in open ground

Growing a daylily in the open field can not be called difficult. However, this condition applies only to natural varieties, while hybrid ones require more thorough care.

In order for the garden bed to regularly delight you with abundant flowering, you need to choose the right place and time for planting, as well as provide the flowers with optimal care during the growing season. We will consider these features in more detail.

How to grow

Under natural conditions, daylilies grow on forest edges, in partial shade. But, since this culture is considered tropical, a flower bed located in a shaded area will not be the most suitable for these flowers. In temperate climates, such an arrangement can lead to the fact that the plants will not have enough light, and there may be no flowering.

Based on these requirements, these flowers are best grown in well-lit areas, although light shade for a few hours a day will also be acceptable.

The soil

A much more important criterion is the correct selection of soil for the plant. Despite the fact that daylilies grow successfully in any soil, for the most abundant flowering it is better to provide the plant with suitable conditions.

The best soil is fertile loam with good drainage. Therefore, if your site has dense clay soil, it must be diluted with sand and compost. Compost is also added to sandy soils, mixing it with a small amount of clay and sod-podzolic soil.

It is important that the area is not too wet. If your garden is in a lowland, you need to additionally equip the drainage or land on raised beds.

From the video you will learn useful tips and practical recommendations for growing daylilies.

What colors go with

Due to the bright and original inflorescences, daylilies can be used both as an element of a flower arrangement and as an independent decoration of the garden. In addition, lush leaves and large inflorescences will go well with ornamental shrubs or fruit trees. The main thing is that taller plants do not shade the flower (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Features of the layout of the flower bed and the combination of flower crops

When planning a flower bed with daylilies, it is important to consider that already at the end of summer these plants stop flowering and lose their decorative effect. That is why, next to the culture, it is necessary to place undersized decorative species (cereal crops, physiostegia, yarrow, etc.), which will hide the yellowing leaves of the culture.

Daylily planting

In order for daylily cultivation to be successful, and the plant to regularly delight you with abundant and long flowering, you need not only to choose the right site and soil for growing, but also follow certain planting rules.

There are clear criteria for planting a plant, although many gardeners believe that there are no special requirements for planting a plant. Since this opinion is erroneous, let us dwell in more detail on the timing and rules for planting this unusual flower in the ground.

When to plant

Planting a crop in open ground can be carried out at any time of the year, except for winter. Plants take root equally well in both spring and autumn planting. However, to eliminate the risk of death of seedlings, it is better to choose the planting time depending on the climatic characteristics of your region.

Note: It should be borne in mind that the duration of the rooting of a young culture is about a month.

If your area has short autumns and cold winters, it is best to plant the flower in autumn. So you will be sure that it will fully take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the southern regions, landing can be carried out in the fall. A layer of mulch will help to provide young plants with additional protection, which is laid out in the garden before the onset of cold weather.

How to plant a daylily

Planting a daylily is practically no different from other flower crops. However, if you are afraid that you will do something wrong and the young shoots will die, we advise you to use our step-by-step planting instructions (Figure 4).

The daylily planting algorithm is as follows:

A few hours before planting, seedlings are placed in water or liquid mineral fertilizers. This procedure will help determine the quality of the root system. All dry or damaged roots are removed, and healthy ones are shortened to 20-30 cm.
Landing pits should have a depth of up to 30 cm, and they should be placed at least half a meter apart. Daylily is a perennial crop and grows rapidly.
Sand, peat, humus, a little ash and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added to each well. A small mound is formed from the nutrient mixture.
A seedling is placed in the center of the mound, the roots are straightened and lightly sprinkled with soil.
The pit is not completely filled with earth. The top layer is carefully compacted and watered. When the water is absorbed, the hole is completely filled with soil.

Figure 4. Scheme of planting a plant in open ground

During planting, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck of the seedling is located no more than 2-3 cm from the soil surface, but does not protrude to the surface. Only in such conditions the plants will quickly take root, begin to grow actively and bloom profusely.

Transfer

With proper care, daylilies develop normally and bloom in one place for 10-15 years. But, if you notice that the number of buds has decreased or they have become smaller, then it's time to pick up a new place for the plant (Figure 5).

Flower transplantation is carried out as follows:

An adult bush is carefully dug around the outer edge and removed along with an earthen clod (while trying not to touch the roots).
The root systems are washed under a strong stream of water to make the bush easier to separate. As a rule, they are easily separated, but in some cases it is necessary to cut them with a knife or secateurs. All cuts must be disinfected.
Immediately before planting, the roots are slightly shortened and planted in the ground according to the scheme described above.

Figure 5. Features of culture transplantation

It is important to consider that it is better to transplant a plant in cloudy weather so that the bushes take root faster in a new place.

daylily care

Despite all the unpretentiousness of the daylily, he still needs some care. Without proper conditions, plants can start to get sick, stun or stop flowering. To prevent this from happening, it is important to provide crops with optimal care.

Let us consider in more detail what care should be provided to these ornamental plants in the garden and what measures should be taken to grow a productive ornamental crop.

Daylily care in the garden

Daylily can be called an ideal plant for the garden, as abundant and long flowering is provided with minimal care. For example, the flower tolerates drought well, so it does not need frequent watering.

Note: The introduction of moisture may be required only in severe and prolonged drought. In this case, one or more buckets of water should be poured directly under the root so that the soil is deeply saturated with moisture, and the procedure itself is best done in the evening.

During the growing process, only two top dressings are required. It is only on poor soils that the amount of fertilizer is increased, but in this case it is important to remember that it is better to slightly underfeed the plant than to cause an overabundance of nutrients. For the first time, complex mineral fertilizers are applied in early spring to stimulate leaf growth. The second time the flowers are fed in August, when the flowering period is over, and the plants begin to prepare for winter.

Regardless of the time of feeding, it is better to use fertilizers in granules, after which the soil must be watered abundantly. Mulching the bush will also have a positive effect, as it will prevent the loss of moisture and nutrients.

For more information on caring for daylilies, see the video.

reproduction

Transplantation and reproduction is best done in August. It is at this time that a short period of vegetative dormancy begins. In most cases, the plant is propagated by dividing the bush, but in some cases propagation by seeds is also allowed (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Plant propagation methods

It should be borne in mind that the latter method is used only for breeding new hybrids, since a plant grown from seeds will not retain the species characteristics of the variety.

Pests and diseases

Daylilies are not only unpretentious, but also relatively resistant crops. They rarely get sick, and most pests are repelled by the rich aroma of the flower. However, there are several types of insects that can harm the plant. For example, thrips get inside the plant from the soil and begin to feed on its juices. As a result, the bush becomes weak, and the buds have an irregular shape. Unfortunately, there are no effective methods of dealing with thrips, and the affected plant must be dug up and burned along with a clod of earth.

An equally dangerous pest is the lilac mosquito, which lays its eggs in the leaves and buds of the plant. The hatched larvae gnaw through the passages in the leaves and reduce the decorative effect of the culture.

Among the common daylily diseases, the following pathologies are distinguished:

root rot most often appears in the spring. A characteristic symptom is yellowing of the leaves and stopping their growth. The affected plant must be carefully removed from the soil, its roots inspected, the damaged parts removed, and the remaining parts washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Rust manifests itself only if patrinia grows next to the daylily. For prevention, the culture must be regularly treated with fungicides.
Fusarium- a fungal disease that causes yellowing and drying of the leaves, and oppression of the whole plant as a whole. In the early stages, fungicides will help to cope with it, but if the disease has spread greatly, the plant must be burned along with an earthen clod.

To prevent the spread of diseases, you need to regularly inspect the bushes and remove their affected parts, as well as carry out preventive treatments with fungicides and insecticides in small doses.

Daylily after flowering

There is a special classification, guided by which you can determine how to properly care for plants after flowering. according to this division into species, daylilies are deciduous, evergreen and semi-evergreen. Representatives of the first group begin to turn yellow after flowering, and their leaves gradually dry out. In such varieties, the aerial part is cut off before winter, leaving no more than 15-20 cm of shoots. For the winter, they can not be covered, as these crops are highly winter-hardy. Semi-evergreen and evergreen varieties require shelter only in cold regions or in a snowless winter if the average daily temperature drops below -20 degrees. Straw, sawdust or dry branches can be used as shelter.

Each flower of this plant lives only one day. But, despite this, most flower growers consider it their duty to plant it, since they cannot imagine a flower garden without a daylily or daylily. The reason for this is a huge variety of varieties, a rich color palette and an amazing vitality of a flower. Planting and caring for daylilies in the open field are not difficult, but they have their own characteristics.

This flower does not create any special problems for flower growers. It easily adapts to different conditions. That's just the real lush and long-term flowering, for which they appreciate the beautiful day, without proper care of the grower will not. Proper and timely planting is one of the important elements of good daylily care.

Landing in open ground

From whether the flower is planted correctly, its future fate depends: whether it will simply fight for life or, thriving in good conditions, will become an ornament to the flower garden and give abundant flowering.

How and when to plant?

Planting dates depend on whether you are planting a newly acquired plant or deciding to divide an old bush. Daylily can be planted from spring to the end of summer, and in the southern regions and in September, taking into account the time required for the plant to take root. But the division is best done in the spring. At the same time, it is better to plant krasnodnev in regions with cold winters. Over the summer, the plant will get stronger and will not suffer even in severe frosts.

How to plant krasnodnev?

They dig a hole taking into account that the entire root system is accommodated, and there is still some space left on the sides. The depth of the pit is about 30 cm, and the diameter is at least 50 cm, taking into account that the bush grows over time.
The soil for planting is prepared from a mixture of sand, peat and humus with the addition of Art. spoons of ash and a pinch of potash-phosphorus fertilizer. You should not get carried away with nitrogen, it provokes the growth of the vegetative mass at the expense of flowering.
An earth mound is poured in the center of the hole and the plant is placed, spreading the roots well. They should not be horizontal, but go a little at an angle in depth.
A white stripe at the base of the leaves will tell you about the level of planting in the same place. The flower should be located in the same way in a new place. The root neck should not be buried more than 2-3 cm, but there should not be bare roots either.
Cover the roots with soil. It must be carefully compacted, preventing the presence of air in the soil - this will cause the roots to die. Gradually water the filled soil. When the plant is fully planted, abundant watering will be required.

Site and soil preparation

Daylily is a long-lasting flower. Some specimens live without a transplant for up to 15 years. Therefore, the place must be chosen carefully so as not to disturb the plant once again with a transplant.

Be sure to take into account the requirements that Krasnodn makes for successful growth and flowering:

a sunny plot, an exception is made only for dark-colored varieties in the southern regions - the flowers burn out from the bright sun, so they need shade at noon;
loose fertile land that retains moisture well, but without stagnant water;
neutral or slightly acidic soil reaction;
the absence of nearby trees and shrubs with which you will have to compete for moisture.

The soil must be prepared in advance. Heavy soil - improve by adding sand and compost, and too light - by adding clay for moisture capacity, soddy-podzolic soil and compost. The earth is dug up on a spade bayonet, carefully choosing the roots of weeds. If necessary, adjust the acidity of the soil.

Landing nuances

Before planting, the plant must be prepared. Cut the leaves, leaving 10-15 cm above the root neck. Remove dead roots, sprinkling cuts with crushed charcoal. The roots are soaked in a weak solution of complex fertilizer with the addition of a root formation stimulator: heteroauxin is used in spring and autumn, and root in summer. Soaking time - up to 24 hours. Soaking should be done in the shade at a temperature of 15 to 23 degrees.

After planting, the soil under the plants is mulched to avoid moisture loss. In hot weather, planted plants need daily watering.

Daylilies: outdoor care

High-quality care and compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology will help maintain plant health and ensure long-term lush flowering.

Temperature regime

Despite the love of sunlight, this plant does not like too much heat. In strong heat, small drops can be sprinkled to make the plants more comfortable. The daylily is considered a frost-resistant flower, but winter shelter is desirable for it. It is especially important for evergreen and semi-evergreen varieties. Mulching the soil will keep it in a loose state, stabilize the temperature, creating better conditions for the development and flowering of daylilies.

Watering the plant

This is a very important event, since Krasodnev is a large water drink and grows well in the presence of moisture in the root zone. Due to the biological features of the root system, this plant can withstand a long dry period. But regular watering increases the number of buds and flower size. The lack of moisture in the soil is evidenced by pale foliage and dropping buds. Therefore, in the absence of rain, daylilies should be watered regularly, soaking the entire root layer of the soil. The plant does not like watering from above - spots appear on the flowers from water. It is best to water daylilies under the root with cold water. It is very good if it is possible to organize drip irrigation. Mulching helps retain moisture in the lower layers of the soil. Most often, daylilies are mulched with half-rotted needles or aged shredded bark.

To avoid burns on the flowers, daylilies are watered early in the morning or late in the evening.

Top dressing and fertilizer

In the first year after transplantation, the beauty day does not need it. Starting from the second year, the plant is fed regularly. The first top dressing is carried out in early spring with a complex mineral fertilizer in dry or liquid form. Dry fertilizer close up in the soil when loosening. The second top dressing with complex fertilizer is done when the buds are advanced. The third top dressing is carried out a month after the mass flowering with phosphorus and potash fertilizers. They will help plants better prepare for winter.

Daylilies respond well to foliar feeding. They can be made with solutions of mineral fertilizers, but at a lower concentration. They are made in cloudy calm weather in the early morning or late evening. Krasodnev loves liquid organic fertilizers: infusions of rotted grass, manure or chicken manure. But they can only be carried out until August, since an excess of nitrogen in the second half of the growing season will not allow the plants to prepare well for winter.

pruning

In the spring, daylilies cut off old leaves along the edges of the curtain, this rejuvenates the bushes. After flowering, cut off all flower stalks. Before frost, it is advisable to cut off all old leaves, leaving only young ones that have recently grown.

Transfer

Daylilies tend to grow quickly. Lush flowering is observed for the first 5-7 years. In the future, the flowers become smaller, and there are fewer of them. So, it's time to transplant the plant, after dividing the curtain into parts.

In the spring, the daytime is transplanted as soon as the young leaves grow to a height of about 10 cm. The delenka is dug in from all sides, washed well with water and carefully divided into parts by hand. As a rule, this can be easily done. Sometimes for separation you have to use a sharp knife, which carefully divides the bushes. Separation points must be treated with a fungicide to prevent possible diseases.

Summer transplantation is possible, but not very desirable, especially in hot weather - this is a strong stress for plants. Planting daylilies in autumn is possible no later than 1.5 months before the onset of frost, so that young bushes have time to take root. The procedure for transplanting is the same as when planting a new plant.

Fall care, preparation for winter

The roots of most daylilies are not afraid of frosts down to -25 degrees, which cannot be said about the aerial part. It freezes at the first frost. Plants need to be prepared for winter in advance. To do this, at the end of summer, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied, which increase frost resistance. Many flower growers prune the old leaves on daylilies before the onset of frost. But you can leave them on the plant. The process of photosynthesis, and hence the accumulation of nutrients in the roots, will continue until they dry out. Dried leaves will additionally cover the plant from the cold. You just need to remove them in time with the onset of spring. It will help to safely winter and mulching the bushes with dry peat, sawdust, chopped straw. This procedure should be carried out after the final establishment of cold weather, so that the bushes do not rot. Many evergreen and semi-evergreen varieties need additional cover with spruce branches.

Daylily reproduction

There are many ways to reproduce:

dividing the bush;
seeds;
air outlets.

The first method has already been described in detail. Additionally, it can be noted that when dividing a bush, parts are always obtained that are different in quality. Peripheral delenki have stronger roots and are more likely to accept and bloom. Parts from the middle take root worse. They need to remove dead roots and trim living ones to stimulate the growth of new ones. These delenki require more attention when caring, feeding and watering.

When propagating by seeds, it must be remembered that new plants will not repeat maternal signs. Seed propagation is used to obtain new hybrids. But, if your plant has pollinated and seeds have started, then you can try to sow them. Who knows, perhaps you will become the owner of an original beautifully flowering plant.

How to propagate krasnodnevy seeds?

So that the seeds do not scatter from a cracked box, it is tied with gauze or wrapped in paper. Fully ripened seeds are dried for 2 weeks and stored in a tightly closed container on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator so that they do not dry out.

The seed propagation algorithm for daylilies is as follows:

before sowing, the seeds are soaked for 2-3 days in water, which is changed daily;
sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm with a distance of 2 cm between seeds;
you can sow the seeds on the beds after the onset of heat, the distance between the seeds is 5 cm, between the rows is 20 cm;
when seedlings grown in a room have 4 leaves, they can be picked out on a garden bed;
daylilies will bloom in the second or third year.

After the end of flowering, in many varieties of krasodneva, small rosettes of leaves appear on the peduncles, which are successfully used for reproduction.

Do it like this:

allow the outlet to develop well without cutting off the peduncle;
for reproduction, cut it off, leaving 4 cm of the peduncle above and below;
if there are no roots on the outlet, root it in water;
in the event of the appearance of roots, they plant it, having previously dipped it in root;
if at least 2 months remain before frost, you can plant sockets on the beds, they must be mulched for the winter;
when winter is just around the corner, you will have to plant sockets in pots with light soil, sprinkled with a centimeter layer of sand and keep on the windowsill; care, fertilize and illuminate them, as well as indoor plants;
plants are planted in the ground in spring.

With any method of planting, the sockets are not deepened, it is enough that the stem knot with roots is immersed in the soil. The leaves at the rosettes are cut to a height of 8 cm.

Table: diseases and pests of daylilies.

Disease or pest	How does it manifest	How to fight
Root collar rot	The leaves turn yellow and die, the neck softens, an odor appears	They wash the excavated plant, remove the rotten parts, disinfect it in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, dry it in the shade before transplanting
leaf striping	Yellow streaks along the midrib and red-brown spots on the leaves	The affected leaves are removed, the plants are treated with foundationazole with a concentration of 0.2%
Rust	Slow growth, no flowering, leaf pustules filled with yellow-orange powder	All infected leaves are removed, as well as healthy ones nearby, treated with fungicides, changing preparations
Viruses	Plants look diseased, spots or streaks appear on the leaves	It is impossible to cure the plant; if the disease is confirmed, the plant is destroyed
daylily mosquito	Larvae in buds	Break off the affected buds
thrips	Ugly shapeless flowers, affected leaves	Cut flower stalks and remove affected leaves, treatment with systemic insecticides

Sometimes daylilies can have problems that are not related to diseases or pests.

Potential Growing Problems

They may be as follows.

Fragility of peduncles - excessive watering and excess nitrogen in the soil are to blame.
The spots on the petals of dark and red flowers are traces of sunburn or heavy rain.
The flower does not fully open - a temporary phenomenon, passes on its own.
Lack of flowering - too deep planting, excess nitrogen, insufficient lighting.

Daylily is a highly decorative and unpretentious plant. It is able to thank the grower for good care with long and lush flowering.

20.09.2017 2 857

Beautiful daylilies, planting and care in the open field for which are very simple, feel great almost everywhere. How to feed, when to transplant, how to propagate, what to do in autumn and spring, you can also learn from the article if you read the text in full. Do not miss all the tricks of flower growers ...

Conditions for growing daylily - light, soil quality

Due to the unpretentiousness and ease in growing and caring for the daylily, the "flowers of joy" settled in the gardens of the whole world. They adorn gardens in Europe, Asia, America and even northern countries. The duration of flowering and the beauty of daylilies depend on how accurately the recommendations for planting and care will be followed.

Flowers love the sun, a site lit all day is suitable for them. It is the lack of sun that explains why the plants in the garden stopped blooming. Light shading is allowed when growing varieties with dark colored petals. Under direct sunlight, they may lose their color brightness.

The underground part of the bush is represented by stolons - thickened rhizomes, in which moisture and nutrients accumulate during periods of drought. Novice gardeners believe that thanks to them, the flower can not be watered, but this is not so - the plant needs moisture for normal growth. For planting choose moisture-intensive soil. Loam with the addition of peat and leafy soil will be ideal in this regard.

Heavy soils, prone to stagnant water, are not suitable, as on them the stolons begin to suffocate from lack of air and rot. To get beautifully flowering daylilies, planting and care in the open field should be carried out on fertile, moderately loose soils. If clay predominates in the soil, it must be diluted with coarse river sand or vermiculite.

Daylilies in the garden - pictured

Important(!) The hybrid daylily makes special demands on the quality of the soil. It blooms when grown on fertile garden soil with a high content of decayed organic matter.

The bushes are resistant to winds and drafts. They tolerate low temperatures well, so when choosing a place for these plants, you should not waste time creating screens, natural shelters from cold air currents.

Daylilies - planting in open ground, technology, selection of seedlings, timing and schemes

To get a healthy and beautiful flowering bush, planting should be done in early spring immediately after the soil thaws or towards the end of summer, when the plants have faded. It is then that the stolons contain the maximum amount of nutrients, which will contribute to better rooting of the daylily. Experienced gardeners note that the best result is obtained when planting plants in the autumn - buds are clearly visible on the roots, from which leaves and flower stalks will grow.

With them, it is much easier to divide the bush into several parts without damaging the growing points. To reduce the risk of losing plants in winter, it is important to choose the right time for planting in the fall.

For rooting, the pet will need about 45 days, so planting in the fall should be carried out 1.5 months before the soil freezes - in September or late August, depending on the region. So, in the Urals, Siberia, an earlier landing is recommended, a little later in the Moscow region, the Leningrad region, and central Russia. In the south, including the Kuban, a later landing is made.

preparation for planting daylilies - in the photo

During spring planting, there is no risk of "falling out" of plants; it also has significant disadvantages. Young daylilies for the first year may not bloom. Especially often this happens when the bush is divided incorrectly, if few buds are left on the division. It is necessary to transplant before active leaf growth, that is, April or early May, depending on the region.

In order for daylilies, whose planting and care on the open ground has its own characteristics, to grow well, the soil must be dug up to a depth of 30 cm, and the roots of weeds should be carefully removed. Planting pits should be made wider and deeper than the size of the root system of seedlings. The optimal planting pattern is 40 cm between plants in a row. Up to 70 cm between rows.

At the bottom of the pits, a mound is poured from fertile garden soil with the addition of a tablespoon of complex fertilizer for flowers in granules (nitrophoska, azofoska, nitroammophoska and the like). You can replace such a nutrient mixture with rotted manure with the addition of 100 g of wood ash. Daylily seedlings before planting should be soaked in a solution of a growth and rooting stimulator for 5-6 hours, for this they use:

2 g / 1 l of water
Gibbersib 1 g/1 liter of water
Heteroauxin 1 tablet / 5 l of water

After soaking, the stolons and roots are examined, the damaged parts are cut off, the wounds are dusted with crushed coal. After that, pets are planted in prepared pits. The roots are straightened along the mounds, covered with garden soil so that the growth bud is at a depth of 1-2 cm. Planted plants are watered, and then pour the earth into places where the soil has settled. Further care for the daylily consists of watering, fertilizing.

Daylily care all year round

In order for daylilies to bloom, planting and care in the open field must follow without the slightest interruption. About 1.5 months, until the flowers form a full-fledged root system, it is recommended to reduce watering. At this stage, a lot of moisture is not needed, as they extract it from the stolons, and a large amount of water in the soil provokes rotting of the root system. When leaving and watering, water should not be allowed to get on the leaves, as they can rot at the base.

With proper preparation of the soil and planting pit, daylilies do not need top dressing in the first year; in subsequent years, the plant is fed three times per season. What nutrients does a daylily require, how to feed it at different periods:

After germination, nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers - urea (15 g / 1 sq. M.) And superphosphate (20 g / 1 sq. M.)
During the formation of buds with potash fertilizers - potassium sulfate (15 g / 1 sq. M.) Or wood ash (1 glass / 1 sq. M.)
In autumn - leaf compost (leafy soil) and humus (up to 3 kg / 1 sq. M.)

Since it is necessary to take care of the daylily not only by watering and fertilizing, gardeners will have to take care of the absence of weeds and maintaining a normal level of moisture in the soil by mulching the plantings. Daylilies feel good if you keep the beds with them all summer under a mulch of pine needles with the addition of peat. With the onset of cold weather in late October or November, the mulch layer is increased to 30 cm, and in early spring, immediately after the snow melts, it is removed.

For a culture such as daylilies, planting and care in the open field, carried out according to all the rules, is the only way to achieve lush flowering, a little more hassle, and the garden will be painted with hundreds of bright flashes.

How to plant daylilies in spring

Daylilies: growing features

Landing in open ground

How and when to plant?

How to plant krasnodnev?

They dig a hole taking into account that the entire root system is accommodated, and there is still some space left on the sides. The depth of the pit is about 30 cm, and the diameter is at least 50 cm, taking into account that the bush grows over time.
The soil for planting is prepared from a mixture of sand, peat and humus with the addition of Art. spoons of ash and a pinch of potash-phosphorus fertilizer. You should not get carried away with nitrogen, it provokes the growth of the vegetative mass at the expense of flowering.
An earth mound is poured in the center of the hole and the plant is placed, spreading the roots well. They should not be horizontal, but go a little at an angle in depth.
A white stripe at the base of the leaves will tell you about the level of planting in the same place. The flower should be located in the same way in a new place. The root neck should not be buried more than 2-3 cm, but there should not be bare roots either.
Cover the roots with soil. It must be carefully compacted, preventing the presence of air in the soil - this will cause the roots to die. Gradually water the filled soil. When the plant is fully planted, abundant watering will be required.

Site and soil preparation

Be sure to take into account the requirements that Krasnodn makes for successful growth and flowering:

a sunny plot, an exception is made only for dark-colored varieties in the southern regions - the flowers burn out from the bright sun, so they need shade at noon;
loose fertile land that retains moisture well, but without stagnant water;
neutral or slightly acidic soil reaction;
the absence of nearby trees and shrubs with which you will have to compete for moisture.

Landing nuances

After planting, the soil under the plants is mulched to avoid moisture loss. In hot weather, planted plants need daily watering.

Daylilies: outdoor care

High-quality care and compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology will help maintain plant health and ensure long-term lush flowering.

Temperature regime

Watering the plant

To avoid burns on the flowers, daylilies are watered early in the morning or late in the evening.

Top dressing and fertilizer

pruning

Transfer

Fall care, preparation for winter

Daylily reproduction

There are many ways to reproduce:

dividing the bush;
seeds;
air outlets.

How to propagate krasnodnevy seeds?

The seed propagation algorithm for daylilies is as follows:

before sowing, the seeds are soaked for 2-3 days in water, which is changed daily;
sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm with a distance of 2 cm between seeds;
you can sow the seeds on the beds after the onset of heat, the distance between the seeds is 5 cm, between the rows is 20 cm;
when seedlings grown in a room have 4 leaves, they can be picked out on a garden bed;
daylilies will bloom in the second or third year.

After the end of flowering, in many varieties of krasodneva, small rosettes of leaves appear on the peduncles, which are successfully used for reproduction.

Do it like this:

allow the outlet to develop well without cutting off the peduncle;
for reproduction, cut it off, leaving 4 cm of the peduncle above and below;
if there are no roots on the outlet, root it in water;
in the event of the appearance of roots, they plant it, having previously dipped it in root;
if at least 2 months remain before frost, you can plant sockets on the beds, they must be mulched for the winter;
when winter is just around the corner, you will have to plant sockets in pots with light soil, sprinkled with a centimeter layer of sand and keep on the windowsill; care, fertilize and illuminate them, as well as indoor plants;
plants are planted in the ground in spring.

With any method of planting, the sockets are not deepened, it is enough that the stem knot with roots is immersed in the soil. The leaves at the rosettes are cut to a height of 8 cm.

Pests and diseases and how to deal with them

Daylilies are quite viable plants, they do not cause much trouble to flower growers, but they also have their own diseases and pests.

Table: diseases and pests of daylilies.

Root collar rot	The leaves turn yellow and die, the neck softens, an odor appears	They wash the excavated plant, remove the rotten parts, disinfect it in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, dry it in the shade before transplanting
leaf striping	Yellow streaks along the midrib and red-brown spots on the leaves	The affected leaves are removed, the plants are treated with foundationazole with a concentration of 0.2%
Rust	Slow growth, no flowering, leaf pustules filled with yellow-orange powder	All infected leaves are removed, as well as healthy ones nearby, treated with fungicides, changing preparations
Viruses	Plants look diseased, spots or streaks appear on the leaves	It is impossible to cure the plant; if the disease is confirmed, the plant is destroyed
daylily mosquito	Larvae in buds	Break off the affected buds
thrips	Ugly shapeless flowers, affected leaves	Cut flower stalks and remove affected leaves, treatment with systemic insecticides

Sometimes daylilies can have problems that are not related to diseases or pests.

Potential Growing Problems

They may be as follows.

Fragility of peduncles - excessive watering and excess nitrogen in the soil are to blame.
The spots on the petals of dark and red flowers are traces of sunburn or heavy rain.
The flower does not fully open - a temporary phenomenon, passes on its own.
Lack of flowering - too deep planting, excess nitrogen, insufficient lighting.

Daylily is a highly decorative and unpretentious plant. It is able to thank the grower for good care with long and lush flowering.

The popularity of daylily is increasing day by day. After all, no amateur grower can resist the beauty and wonderful aroma of this excellent flower. It is not at all necessary to be a professional in this matter, you can also plant daylily varieties in open ground yourself, and then start propagating and growing them.

Daylilies are hardy plants and when properly planted, they will thrive in any climate. But in order for the bushes to look healthy and well-groomed, and the flowers to bloom profusely, it is necessary to carry out proper care to the fullest.

Daylilies are very diverse in color and shape.

Varieties and varieties of daylilies

World breeders are working tirelessly to improve daylily varieties, bringing out more and more new varieties. To date, there are more than 70,000 of them. Most of the new varieties that fall into our region are of American origin, although there are domestic species that are in no way inferior to them.

daylily red

Daylilies are classified according to several parameters:

type of growing season (dormant, evergreen and semi-green);
a set of chromosomes (diploid and tetraploid);
smell (fragrant and not smelling);
form (terry, spider-like, indefinite shape and all the rest);
coloration (they are divided into 11 groups from almost white to almost black, since pure white and pure black colors do not yet exist);
flowering time (very early, early, medium early, medium, medium late, late, very late and reblooming).

The best varieties of daylilies - photo

Chang Dinesti(Chang Dynasty Stamile, 2008) - coral-pink flower with an orange wavy border. This is the so-called chameleon: depending on weather conditions, it can change color from completely red to pink-orange. Differs in abundant flowering - over 50 buds are formed on each peduncle.

Variety Chang Dinesti

Paula Dask(Polar Dusk. Stamile, 2011) - the most flawless pink flower with a luxurious creamy yellow border in the form of ruffles and folds. Another of its pleasant characteristics is the diamond coating - the brilliance on the surface of the petals, as from a scattering of small diamonds.

Variety Paul Dusk

Robin Lee(Robin Lee. Hansen, 2010) - pink-red flower with a slightly ruffled white edge. Despite its impressive size, it creates the impression of transparency and weightlessness due to its elegant shape and the harmonious combination of the main color with the border.

Robin Lee variety

How to plant

No matter how unpretentious the plant is, it is necessary to create the appropriate conditions for its vital activity. First of all, you need to decide on the landing site. All varieties of daylilies prefer sunlight to some extent. Light-colored flowers (yellow, orange, white, etc.) like to grow in direct sunlight, but daylilies with darker flowers (purple, purple, red) are best planted in partial shade, as they will quickly fade in the sun and wither.

The ideal soil for growing daylilies is loam rich in organic matter; others are also suitable, the main thing is that they are not depleted, and their acidity is within the normal range (6-6.5 pH).

Varieties with dark flowers are best planted in partial shade.

Before planting, you need to carefully inspect the seedling, if necessary, cut off dead roots. Next, soak the daylily root system in a growth stimulator. It can be prepared independently from willow branches, by insisting them in water for 2 days. The plant is placed in the resulting infusion for 4 hours.

Planting a daylily in open ground is carried out as follows:

dig a spacious landing hole 40-45 cm deep;
throw a handful of organic fertilizer;
inside the hole, a small hill is made, compacted to form a hill;
they plant the daylily on a hill, as if on a hat, carefully straighten the roots and cover them with earth.

young daylily bush

Attention! The distance between the seedlings is made at least 40 cm, otherwise they will drown out each other during growth.

Suitable daylily care

After planting, the plants need watering and care. There are no strictly defined rules. Experienced flower growers, based on their practice, recommend following some simple rules when growing a daylily.

Planted crops are watered daily for 7 days. Adult daylilies will be moistened only during prolonged droughts, and with exceptionally warm water, which is poured under the root.
To prolong flowering, wilted flowers and faded stems are regularly cut off.
The root neck of the daylily is deepened strictly by 2 cm, otherwise the flowers may not appear at all and you will have to deal with transplanting.
After watering, the soil must be loosened.

Watering the daylily

Top dressing and fertilizer daylily

Of course, daylilies need to be fertilized, but before that, it is necessary to study the composition of the soil on the site and, based on the result, apply certain fertilizers.

The basic rule is that fertilizers are applied no earlier than 14 days after rooting. Basically, for young plants, 2-3 feedings per season will be enough, but for older (5-6-year-olds) and even abundantly blooming ones, 4-5 doses will be needed.

In early spring, a full range of mineral fertilizers is applied, for example, one of the most common NPK 16:16:16 (1 tablespoon of granules per 10 liters of water).
In April-May, in order to promote growth intensity, emphasis is placed on complex fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen (nitroammophosphate, ammophos, diammonium phosphate).
In summer, during flowering, daylilies can be fed with organic matter: a solution of mullein, chicken manure or fermented grass.
At the end of flowering, before the onset of new growth (in early autumn), fertilizer is carried out with nitroammophos or sulfate with ash, depending on the climatic zone. This top dressing helps to increase the size of the flowers, as well as their number in the new season.

Daylilies need to be fertilized several times during the growing season.

Daylily reproduction

There are several ways to propagate daylilies, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

The division of the bush

The easiest and most common way to get young daylilies, which, by all indications, will be identical to the mother ones. If necessary, the bush can be divided throughout the growing season. As a rule, separation is started when the plant reaches 3-4 years of age. Another signal for transplantation is the crushing of flowers. The optimal division time is the first half of summer - the beginning of autumn, then the plant will have time to get stronger before the onset of frost.

Division of a daylily bush

seed propagation

It is used only for breeding activities, since in everyday life daylilies planted by this method are not able to maintain their species characteristics.

Reproduction offspring

Subject to all transplantation standards, it allows you to increase the number of plants from one manufacturer, while maintaining all species characteristics. But before you plant sockets in open ground, you should plant them in pots and put them in a warm place for several weeks.

Daylily reproduction by offspring

Important! If there are still 6-7 weeks before frost, plant the sprouts in the fall, and if they have not had time to take root, then in the spring (in mid-May).

Diseases and pests of daylilies

Compared to other neighbors in the flower garden, daylilies rarely get sick, and pests do not hunt for these magnificent flowers as much, but still this kind of trouble sometimes happens.

Daylilies suffer mainly from root rot, fungal and viral diseases, spotting, rust and fusarium. To prevent these diseases, plants are treated with fungicides. But if trouble does happen, the bushes are dug up, the rhizomes are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate, dried, and then planted in a new place.

daylily rust

Daylilies are attacked by several types of insects. The most widespread of them:

thrips. Arise in early spring from the ground and suck out the juice and nutrients from the stems and buds of the plant. To destroy them, the affected bushes are burned, and the soil in the flower bed is treated with insecticides;
lilac midges. They live in buds, therefore, in order to get rid of them, it is enough to cut off the peduncle;
spider mites, slugs, aphids and bedbugs. Control methods are the same as in cases of damage to other plants.

Daylily: combination with other plants

Despite their grandeur and variety of colors, daylilies harmoniously fit into almost all color compositions, the main thing is to choose plants for them that will perfectly match their color, shape or texture.

A mono-composition will be brighter and richer if daylilies of pastel shades are combined with plain gravels, and bright lilac or crimson with geraniums, monards, bells and cuffs.

Daylily in the flowerbed

Daylilies are also excellent for Thunberg's barberry, geyher and tenacious, as well as shrubs - elder, mock orange, privet, if they are evenly distributed over the mixborder.

Phloxes are ideal neighbors of daylilies, as they bloom almost simultaneously, and even in color they are ideally combined with each other. For example, lilac phlox will complement lavender daylilies.

Daylily in landscape design - photo

Thanks to such a variety of colors, daylilies are actively used in garden design.
Before filling the flower beds with flowers, you should carefully consider, and even better, draw up a detailed plan of the flower garden, taking into account all the nuances. In this case, it is necessary to take into account: the frequency of flowering, the height of the selected varieties of daylilies, their color, as well as harmony with the general background.

Daylily in landscape design

Cultivation of a daylily is a delicate matter that requires special attention, but the efforts and labors spent are soon justified by the unearthly beauty and amazing aroma of this elegant flower.

Unpretentious daylily: video

Varieties of daylilies: photo

When does daylily bloom?

Place for planting a daylily

Daylily flowers in the garden photo

How to plant a daylily photo

Watering

top dressing

Shelter for the winter

Daylily reproduction

Proliferation

Prolifera has given roots photo

Height classification:

New varieties of daylilies:

daylily border

Daylilies in the flowerbed photo

Daylilies in the garden photo

Glade of daylilies photo

What is the name of the daylily garden? Daylily? Chemerocallaria?

I want a lot of daylilies! To bloom from mid-summer to (at least) early September. I am looking for information about varieties and places where you can buy delenki.

Honestly? My head is bursting from the abundance of information that I pushed into it. And it still makes no sense.

Here are the varieties I want to buy.

BARACUDA BAY, semi-evergreen.

ELIZABETH SALTER, semi-evergreen, remontant.

It's actually a rich pink.

HIGHLAND LORD, semi-evergreen.

PAT GARRITY, semi-evergreen.

Please, tell me, do you grow daylilies of these varieties? How do they winter? How profusely bloom?

I can't make up my mind to buy. And there are several reasons. The first reason is that it is not clear how the plants will behave in my cold winter climate. There is a division of all daylilies according to the type of vegetation. There are three groups in total. Sleepers, in which the foliage loses its green color by winter, turns yellow, withers, dies, and the plant itself really hibernates, as all local natives do, waking up in the spring when it gets warm, when the soil warms up. Our daylilies wake up early. I have Katerina Woodbury, the plant belongs to this type.

There are evergreens. These are definitely not needed in Siberia. In warm countries, they do not have a dormant period, because in our country their leaves do not turn yellow en masse, do not die off, they are simply killed by a good frost or frost if there is no snow or it fell at the wrong time, too late, and could not protect. Or in winter there will suddenly be a sharp warming for a long time, when hyacinths suddenly wake up under the snow. And then frosts come again, then the cold kills the awakened buds of renewal, and flower buds. Daylilies like this just die. After all, even the shelter is not able to save. Ideally, the leaves of the plant will freeze, the underground part will freeze a little, but new sprouts will still appear in the spring. Is there any point in experimenting? Why not, if you buy varieties that all sellers claim that evergreens winter wonderfully in the Moscow region.

There is a form that does not seem to sleep in winter, but does not grow either, it is semi-evergreen. If these are grown somewhere in Florida, then they become evergreen. In our country, it seems that part of the foliage dies off, but part does not die off. However, the plant does not sleep in winter, but is almost awake, kemarite, being half asleep. It grows at the first warmth and can freeze well if sufficiently severe frosts return.

There are even recommendations, be sure to ask before buying the type of vegetation in order to buy able to grow in our climate. Sometimes they write that evergreen daylilies need a greenhouse. Although there are other opinions too. And evergreens grow well in the climate of the Moscow region. But I have Siberia, though the south.

But this is not the only reason. From this first follows the second. I want to grow not only early varieties, I need those that are indicated in serious catalogs by the letters L (flowering in late August, late variety), ML (blooming in mid-August, medium-late variety), M (blooming in early August, medium by timing grade). And underflowering, as my Katerina Woodbury is doing now, but starting to bloom. Here the problem is different. Will a plant with such a late flowering period have time to prepare for winter? And how will he carry it?

The third reason is even simpler: who can you trust? Here is a screenshot of the description of the Katerina Woodbury variety.

But I have this sort of daylily for several years the second time did not bloom even once. Can it be attributed to mid-late, because by the eighth of August it fades, pleases with the last flowers.

Reviewed information about all my daylilies. And everywhere there are disagreements in assessments and discrepancies. But all my plants were bought in the Urals, I hoped that while they were growing, propagated, they could adapt to the weather. Now I want to buy in the nursery of the Moscow region. Super modern ones are not needed, they will be too sorry if they do not withstand frost. I don't want to worry.

Without this flower, one cannot imagine a garden in the second half of summer.

Bright, colorful, unpretentious. Daylilies are amazing flowers with a rich history. Their origin, biography, botany and selection are interesting.

Modern breeding has brought out a huge number of hybrids of this plant.

Daylily - Hemerocállis (lat.), or Krasodnev (according to various classifications) is a perennial herbaceous rhizome plant, in nature there are approximately 16 to 30 species and many hybrids.

Varieties of daylilies, types

Daylilies can vary greatly in height - from 30 cm to a meter, and flower stalks grow much higher than the bushes themselves.

By size, daylilies can be divided into 4 types:

dwarf - up to 30 cm,
low - up to 60 cm,
medium height - up to 80 cm,
high - above 80 cm.

Daylily brown-yellow

A plant 75-100 cm high, with orange flowers with a brick shade. Very popular in gardens.

Branched numerous peduncles rise above the bushes, have 6-12 large flowers (diameter 10 cm), which begin to bloom in July-August.

Middendorf Daylily

These are tall sprawling winter-hardy bushes with large flowers of yellow and orange, with a strong smell, abundant flowering. In one inflorescence up to 5 flowers.

Popular in the Far East, in Eastern Siberia.

Daylily Citrine

The flowers are lemon-yellow, tall more than a meter bush. Lemon-colored flowers are long, up to 14 cm, half-open, monophonic, very large, collected in a compact raceme with a strong aroma.

It grows rapidly and blooms profusely in the first half of summer. Blooms at night. The long, elongated shape of the flower resembles a lily flower, only more elegant. The lemon-yellow daylily is found in the wild only in areas of Central China.

Daylilies in landscape design

In China, daylilies have long been considered an ornamental flower, used for meditation, medicinal and culinary purposes, and grown in gardens.

They are also common in Korea and Japan. The plant came to Europe several centuries ago. Daylily grows in most of Russia, including the Far East.
This is a flower that blooms constantly in the garden, on one daylily peduncle there can be from 30 to 60 flowers.
A variety of flower shapes and shades of color make the daylily almost indispensable in any garden.

Its different varieties can be used in any combination and in various compositions separately - in the form of a tapeworm, on the lawn. But in combination with other plants, the daylily in the garden landscape is also beautiful. This flower is a universal companion - tolerant, generous, grateful, friendly.

For example, mixboders with undersized plants along the path and daylily bushes of different varieties along the wall look original.
Daylily bushes are appropriate in the middle of the rose garden in the August heat, when many roses have faded and are preparing for a new bloom, and the daylily revives the subsided beauty of the rose garden.

Another combination in which daylilies are very good is conifers. They look good next to thujas, junipers, cedar and spruce. They all have something that these plants emphasize the beauty of each other.

And a classic of the genre - a combination of daylilies with relatives - hosts.

Daylily reproduction

There are three ways to reproduce daylilies:

Vegetative - dividing the bush.
Cuttings - rooting rosettes.
seed way.

Amateur flower growers use the first two in their practice.

When growing daylilies from seeds, the parental properties of the flower are not preserved, and flowering occurs only in the third year.
When planting a daylily seedling in open ground at the very bottom of the hole, it is necessary to form a small pyramid from the ground, install a seedling in it and diligently straighten the roots.

Then pour the earth into the hole, gently crush it with your hands, while pouring water. A planted plant will not bloom (or not bloom enough) if planted deep, so that the roots are deeper than 2-2.5 cm.

Admire the different types of daylilies:

Photo gallery of daylilies

daylily care

Watering rules

Daylily should not be watered often and superficially, but under the root and until completely saturated with moisture. Water should not fall on the flower petals. Although the daylily is an unpretentious plant, heavy clay and sandy soils are not suitable for it.

Feeding and pruning

The daylily is fed even before planting, placing the roots in a solution with fertilizers:

The first top dressing is after the snow melts. You can use the usual dry mineral fertilizer for flowers. Granules scattered under the bush are mixed with the ground when loosening.
The second time top dressing is done in May - with the same fertilizers, but adding potassium phosphate to them.
The third time the daylily needs to be fed in August or September with a small amount of potash fertilizers.

After each fertilization, it is necessary to water the bush well with water.

After the daylily blooms, the flower stalks should be cut off immediately, as well as the stems in wet weather.

Before wintering, all the leaves of the aerial part are removed so that during the rains they get wet and then there is no rot, which leads to plant diseases.

Leave only the winter (young leaves).

Daylily is an unpretentious plant and survives all the vagaries of nature.

A small number of flowers on a bush or their long absence is the only "disease" of this beautiful plant that can upset flower growers. But its main reason is non-compliance with the conditions for proper landing.

When are daylilies transplanted?

When to transplant a daylily and should it be done? Gardeners often ask this question. If the daylily blooms magnificently from year to year and all season, it is not necessary to touch it without special need.

The best time to plant this plant is in spring, in the second half of April and at the very beginning of autumn. If it was not possible to plant daylilies in the spring, or the planted ones did not take root well, then you can plant or transplant a plant in the fall.

At the same time, at the beginning of autumn, old tired plants that are already 5-7 years old should also be renewed. The plant is dug up, the roots are divided into parts and transplanted to another place.

But at the same time, the weather conditions of the area should be taken into account - in order to adapt to a new place and take root well, the flower needs at least a month.

Of course, at this particular time there should be no frosts. In order for the transplanted daylily to successfully overwinter, it is necessary to spud it well with earth or leaves (humus) to a height of about 10-15 cm.

It is worth having at least one daylily in your garden and you will begin to develop your own story with these flowers.

Chic plants for your garden will be daylilies, planting and caring for which will not cause much trouble.

However, there are several secrets that will allow the flower not to fight for survival, but to show itself in all its beauty.

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Lily or daylily

It is always difficult for beginner flower growers to distinguish a daylily from a lily. However, there are differences.

Signs of difference	lilies	daylilies
cultivation	They grow from bulbs. Leaves are attached to their stem, annularly or spirally. In the place where the last lower leaf joins the stem, a kidney is formed. As a result, it develops itself and a bulb grows from it, which will give a stem next year. However, if lilies are grown from seeds, then the first flowering stem will appear no earlier than three to seven years from the moment of planting.	They grow from thickened tubers (stolons) with a developed root system.
Stem	They have a large perianth, which consists of six loose leaves-petals with gracefully bent ends. At the base of each lily is a kind of jelly-like tissue that attracts insects that pollinate the flower.	They differ from a lily in a stem-peduncle with a height of 30-100 cm, to which large pairs of leaves are attached. The flowers of the plant consist of six petals that form a kind of funnel.
Care	They need a minimum temperature of at least 10°C for development. Require sufficient lighting, but die from direct sunlight. Need regular watering.	The growing season can start at 4°C. They can grow not only in sunny areas, but also in shady areas. Thanks to the developed root system, they can independently provide themselves with everything necessary for life.

We are sure that you have caught the difference and know what lilies look like and what daylilies look like. Naturally, in appearance of the flowers, the daylily is identical to the lily, so it is best to purchase planting material in specialized stores that provide the necessary advice if necessary.

Landing time

Experienced gardeners prefer to plant daylilies during the spring-autumn period. However, planting time will always depend on the climatic conditions of your area. The rapid onset of winter cold can destroy a daylily planted in autumn.

However, by acquiring varieties with an early or medium flowering period, they can be planted in areas far from the southern latitudes. This will allow the flower to take root and prepare for wintering in the garden.

Mulching the beds on which the daylily is planted will help protect it from winter cold and frost. And the most comfortable landing time is May and August (for middle climatic latitudes).

Armed with this simple knowledge, you can start landing.

We plant correctly

Before the plant is planted, the acquired material must be soaked for several hours, if not in a highly diluted mineral fertilizer, then in ordinary, but settled or rain water. This is necessary so that the roots of the flower swell and come to life. Thus, you can easily find dead roots and carefully remove them.

Before planting, the roots of the seedling should be cut to a length of 20 or 30 cm.

Now let's talk about how the flower is actually planted:

A shallow, up to 30 cm, hole breaks out. During this process, it is necessary to take into account the planting of the plant for a long period (up to 10-15 years) and the growth of the bush in diameter up to 50-70 cm.
A mixture of humus, sand and peat is poured into each hole in the form of a small slide. From above, everything is sprinkled with ash mixed with potash-phosphorus fertilizers. All backfilled mixture must be placed on the roots in such a way as to avoid the creation of air pockets.
The planting does not end there - the hole is partially covered with soil.
Holding the flower with your hand, the soil near the roots is thoroughly compressed.
Now water is poured into the landing hole. Its rapid absorption will indicate that the landing was made with errors. To correct them, it is necessary to take a certain part of the dry soil and compact it again.
The process is completed by adding soil to the edges of the landing pit.

A strategically important point is the deepening of the root neck of the plant to a depth not exceeding three centimeters. Otherwise, improper planting will lead to rotting of the root system, growth retardation or the risk of developing various diseases.

However, if the planting is done correctly, then the moisture received by the flower will be quite enough for rooting.

Transplantation is a separate science

After the plant is planted, sooner or later it will need to be transplanted. In one place, the daylily can grow up to 15 years. However, such a long period greatly affects the quality of its flowering and the young luxurious flower begins to lose its former beauty.

A decrease in the abundance of the peduncle will indicate the time of daylily transplantation. The agreed process proceeds as follows:

A bush is dug along the outer borders.
With care, it is removed along with an earthen clod.
Under a strong stream of water, all adhering soil is washed off.
The roots are separated by so-called separate fans.

Dividing the root system into fans, a knife or pruner is not always used. However, if it was not possible to do without it and as a result the root system was damaged, then the “wounds” must be treated with a fungicide.

Transplantation of the plant, as well as planting, is carried out in cloudy weather. Before immersing the daylily in the ground, it is necessary to cut the roots and remove their dead and rotten areas.

Watering

Despite the fact that daylily planting can be done even in dry soil, water is vital to it. Therefore, certain plant care should include watering in the required amount. Due to sufficient humidity, not only the number and size of buds increases, but also their quality.

During the growing season, the flower especially needs a lot of moisture. However, soil moisture will depend on its mechanical composition. To ensure the required care at this time, you just need to ensure that the soil around the plant is always abundantly moistened with water. Ideally - to a depth of 30 cm.

Based on the soil and climatic conditions, in order to maintain the required level of humidity, watering the plant must be done 1 or 2 times for seven days. Special care will be required for the daylily even if planting was carried out in sandy soil, and mulching remains the best way to retain moisture.

When providing proper flower care, one should not forget that the evening hours are the best time for watering. The water supply must be made directly under the bush itself.

"Bathing" a daylily in puddles of water will lead to the appearance of peculiar spots on the buds.

Using the phrase "proper care" it is necessary to understand the so-called proper watering, which consists of moistening the soil by sprinkling. This approach to the issue of providing the flower with moisture also avoids creating conditions for the development of the spider mite. It is worth mentioning that in the case of sprinkling, irrigation occurs not only as efficiently as possible, but also rationally.

Despite the fact that constantly moist soil can serve as an excellent breeding ground for pathogens, they do not pose any threat to the daylily.

Required nutrition

No matter how careful the care of daylilies is, the time for feeding will still come. Many practicing gardeners today argue that daylilies respond to the introduction of a special nutrient medium into the soil with rapid growth and abundant budding.

When considering plant care in terms of fertilization, it is necessary to know the shortcomings of the soil in which the flower is planted in order to compensate for the missing nutrients in it.

Before starting a conversation about something specific, you need to remember that the mineral fertilizers used must contain:

Thanks to them, the growth of the flower is ensured and its vital activity is supported.

The required care of the plant forces the grower to be fluent in such a concept as soil acidity or pH. It is important in the process of transporting nutrients from the soil to the flower.

As a rule, fertilizers are applied at certain periods, namely:

We must not forget that after applying any type of fertilizer, abundant watering of the daylily should always follow.

It has long been proven that daylilies get 20% of all nutrients from the soil, and the remaining 80% from the air. That is why practicing flower growers prefer spraying fertilizers on the leaves of cultivated plants to basal top dressing. Mist spray is the best option.

At the end of the topic of the use of fertilizers, I would like to debunk a certain myth that a flower does not need additional feeding, since it has a unique vitality and enviable unpretentiousness. Modern daylily requires special attention. Therefore, care must be appropriate.

However, in an effort to provide the bush with everything necessary, “overfeeding” should not be allowed. Such care will only be harmful. Excessive fertilizer greatly increases the green mass and significantly inhibits budding. Also at this moment, the color of the plant suffers - its flowers fade, the petals lose their originality, become uneven and covered with spots.

The daylily plant is boldly called a culture for lazy gardeners. Even the almost complete lack of care does not prevent its gorgeous flowering. You can decorate the garden with "savage" daylilies, as well as hybrids and varieties of incredible beauty bred by breeders.

They are called flowers of joy - one cannot but rejoice when looking at bright flowers. It is believed that they bring good luck, taking away all sorrows and sorrows away.

The culture prefers sunlight, but also feels good in slight shading (enough active lighting of the site for 6 hours a day). They do not impose special requirements on the composition of the soil, they successfully grow in one place for many years, forming lush flowering thickets. Perfectly adapted to the vagaries of the weather.

When does daylily bloom?

Flowering time of daylilies: active flowering occurs in April-June.

For the successful cultivation of a daylily, several points should be determined: what place to choose, when and how to plant, what, even if minimal, care is required.

Place for planting a daylily

Daylily flowers in the garden photo

It is very important to immediately choose the right site for growing, since daylilies are centenarians. Curtains with the most beautiful multi-colored corollas without a transplant cost about 15 years.

When choosing a site for growing daylilies, keep in mind that they grow best under bright light. At the same time, it is not afraid of drafts and strong gusts of wind. Under such conditions, most garden crops will feel uncomfortable - daylilies help out a lot. For free growth, give it space that will not be limited to shrubs, trees, large herbaceous plants. They can compete with the plant.

Please note that the root system should not suffer from the close occurrence of groundwater and spring flooding.

Dates for planting daylilies in open ground

With what flowers to plant daylilies photo

The time of planting daylilies in open ground can be attributed to the advantages of the plant. This can be done throughout the warm season. Nothing prevents you from doing a transplant until the fall.

The most successful spring planting- seedlings quickly take root and grow, flowering will come in the same season. If the weather is cold, planting material can be stored outside the ground for about a month: sprinkle the root system with sand or a sand-peat mixture, you can shift it with a damp rag. At the same time, cut the leaf plates in half or 1/3 to reduce the plant's need for moisture.

If the summer turned out to be not hot, you can plant at this time.

When planting in the fall, there is a risk that before the onset of cold weather, the plants will not have time to take root, may freeze in winter or, if they do not die, will be weak. For the winter, young plantings should be covered with earth, mulch the soil with foliage or straw.

According to experienced gardeners, in the middle lane, the most favorable months for planting a daylily are May and August.

Planting a daylily in spring in open ground

How to plant a daylily photo

Seedlings should be prepared for planting. Inspect them, remove dry, damaged or rotten roots. Treat the cut areas with a fungicide. Greens can be cut, departing 10-15 cm from the base of the leaf plates.

If by the time of planting in open ground the roots have dried up, the seedlings should be soaked for 4 hours in a solution with a growth stimulator.

Daylily grows well in loose, light soil of a neutral or slightly acidic reaction - this is the usual garden soil.

Dig the area to the depth of a full shovel bayonet. Dilute clay soil or loam with rotted manure, compost and sand.
Make planting holes according to the size of the root system.
If the soil is depleted, prepare a nutrient mixture: humus and peat with the addition of 30 g of potassium and phosphorus per 1 bucket of substrate.
Pour earth with a slide into the planting hole, place the seedling on top of the soil, carefully distribute the rhizome so that the roots do not bend.
Sprinkle with earth and lightly compact the soil around the seedling, water, the root neck can be deepened by 2-3 cm.
Maintain a distance of 70 cm between individual plants.

To reduce evaporation of moisture, you can mulch the soil around the plant. Use improvised materials (tree bark, needles, straw). Daylilies are planted in the same way in summer and autumn.

How to care for daylilies in the garden

Daylily care procedures are minimal: water, periodically loosen the soil, remove weeds.

Watering

Actively growing and flowering daylily needs regular watering. Faded leaves indicate a lack of moisture; buds may be dropped. In the heat, water abundantly so that the soil gets wet by 20-30 cm (to the depth of the root system). The daylily will also respond excellently to shallow sprinkling. With sufficient rainfall, reduce watering.

The best time for water procedures is evening or early morning - there is no risk of burns.

top dressing

In the first season after planting, the plant has enough nutrients. From the second year, start feeding. Use complex mineral fertilizers. The proportion of nitrogen should be moderate so as not to provoke excessive tillering at the expense of flowering. Feed in the spring, a couple of times in the summer. Closer to autumn, apply potassium-phosphorus top dressing to strengthen the plant for wintering.

Shelter for the winter

The frost resistance of the plant is high, but the daylily may suffer during snowless winters. Cover with needles, spruce branches or other improvised materials. Free from shelter as soon as active snowmelt begins, so that the root neck does not overheat and do not dry out.

Daylily reproduction

Usually daylily is propagated vegetatively (dividing a bush, rooting a leaf rosette). During seed propagation from their seeds, a loss of varietal differences occurs - therefore, daylilies are grown from seeds only if they were purchased from a trusted manufacturer.

When to plant a daylily or why it does not bloom

The maximum lush flowering of the daylily bush occurs in the first 5-7 years, then the flower stalks among the lush greenery appear less often, and the inflorescences become smaller. The situation can be corrected by the usual division of the bush. Unpretentious culture easily tolerates the process of division and transplantation.

Propagation of a daylily by dividing a bush

To separate a daylily bush, carefully dig it up from all sides to remove it along with the root system.
The resulting planting material is carefully divided with a knife into separate parts so that at least one green shoot with a part of the rhizome remains.

How to divide a daylily bush photo

The resulting delenki are planted in the manner described above.

Daylily reproduction by air babies - prolifers

Proliferation- Another way to propagate daylily. What he really is? This is the rooting of leaf rosettes formed on the peduncle (proliferation). They must be well developed.

Daylily reproduction Photo of cut prolifera

Wait until the upper part of the peduncle leading to the outlet dries out, then cut out the part of the peduncle along with the outlet and place it in water for rooting.

How to propagate daylilies with prolifers photo

Shorten the leaves by 1/3 of the length.
You can add a couple of drops of growth stimulant.

Prolifera has given roots photo

When the roots reach a length of 4-5 cm, plant in pots with light soil and grow indoors until spring.
Transplant into open ground in late April-early May.

Growing daylily from seeds at home

How to grow a daylily from seeds at home photo

You can plant a daylily with seeds at home as early as the end of February.
Daylily seeds are quite large. They are soaked before planting, spread out on damp small pebbles, perlite or damp cloth.
When the seeds hatch, they are carefully planted in separate cups or pots filled with universal seedling soil.
Be sure to have drainage holes in the bottom of the container.

Daylily seedlings from seeds photo

Seedlings grow on a warm sunny window.
Water regularly without stagnant moisture, feed 1-2 times a month with complex fertilizers.
At the end of May, when there are no more frosts, daylily seedlings can be planted in the ground.
Pre-harden off the plants for 1-2 weeks.

Types of daylily with photos and names

Culturally grown 3 species forms of daylily.

Daylily brown-yellow Hemerocallis fulva

Daylily brown-yellow Hemerocallis fulva photo

Six-petalled corollas of an orange hue flaunt on a meter-high peduncle.

Daylily yellow Hemerocallis flava

Daylily yellow Hemerocallis flava photo

Corollas of a dusty-yellow hue slightly droop.

Lemon Yellow Daylily Hemerocallis citrine

Daylily lemon yellow Hemerocallis citrine variety baroni photo

Corollas of lemon-yellow shade reach a diameter of about 10 cm.

There are about 30,000 daylily varieties - the painstaking work of breeders.

They can be divided according to the shape of the inflorescences:

Simple (the closest to natural species);
Terry (have a double, triple set of petals);
Arachnids (elongated petals make the flower look like this insect);
Form unusual or indeterminate;
Multiforms (can be assigned to several groups at once).

Daylilies are distinguished by the flowering period:

The dates are early and late, there are varieties with wave flowering (several times per season).
There are also day and night views.

Height classification:

Miniature varieties 30-40 cm high (corolla diameter 7-8 cm)
Tall, reaching a maximum height of 1.5 m (corolla diameter can reach 15-17 cm).

The best varieties of daylily with photo names and descriptions

Daylily hybrid Frans Hals Frans Hals photo of flowers

Frans Hals - plant height 60-80 cm, peduncle ends in yellow-orange corollas with a wavy edge, diameter is 12-15 cm.

Daylily Bonanza Hemerocallis Bonanza photo

Bonanza - in the center of the yellow corolla there is a spray of red-wine tint. Differs in regular flowering, high frost resistance.

There are varieties of daylilies, the inflorescences of which resemble gladioli in appearance:

Daylily ‘Longfields Pearl’ Longfields Pearl photo

Longfields Pearl - yellow-cream flowers bloom in August, delighting until mid-autumn. The diameter of the corolla is 10 cm.

Daylily Stella De Oro Stella De Oro photo

Stella De Oro - the height of the bush is 30-40 cm. The yellow corollas are 6-7 cm. It has a long flowering period. The baby will become a real star of the garden: undersized bushes will look spectacular along the paths, in curb plantings.

New varieties of daylilies:

Daylily Catherine Woodbury Catherine Woodbery photo

Catherine Woodbery - the petals of the classic form for a daylily have a vibrant lilac hue that changes depending on the lighting (under the bright sun it becomes pink-yellow, and in the shade it shows lilac-pink sophistication). Diameter - 12-16 cm.

Daylily Night Bacon Night Beacon photo

Night Beacon - colorful contrast of yellow-green core and purple petals, does not fade under the sun. Corollas reach a diameter of 8 cm.

Daylily Double River Wye Hemerocallis Double River Wye photo

Double River Wye - terry whisks with a diameter of about 12 cm, the color is rich yellow.

Daylily bestseller Hemerocallis Bestseller photo

Bestseller - the height of the bush is 60-70 cm. Large corollas (14 cm in diameter) are impressive in shape and color. They are simple, but on the edges of the pink-purple petals there is a convoluted frill of a greenish-yellow hue.

Daylily Divas Choice Hemerocallis Diva’s Choice photo

Diva's Choice is a spot of creamy yellow at the bottom of the neck, fading into pink-cream petals that turn salmon-coral as it blooms. The record diameter of inflorescences is 17 cm. One peduncle holds 3-4 corollas.

Daylily Pandoras box Hemerocallis Pandora’s box photo

Pandora's box - with a half-meter height of the bush, it pleases with inflorescences with a diameter of about 10 cm. The neck of the corolla is lime-colored, then the bright middle is like a handful of ripe cherries, ending in pastel-yellow petals.

Daylily Pardon Me Hemerocallis Pardon Me photo

Pardon Me is the leader among undersized varieties. Blooms from June to late September. The neck is a shade of lime, the petals are dark cherry.

Daylily Night Embers Hemerocallis Night Embers photo

Night Embers - the height of the bush is 75 cm. The corollas are terry, with a diameter of 12-15 cm. The petals are like velvet, raspberry-wine hue.

Daylily Lacy Doily Hemerocallis Lacy Doily photo

Lacy Doily - the bush is 60-80 cm high. Graceful double flowers have a pale pink hue.

Daylily Double Dream Hemerocallis Double Dream photo

Double Dream is truly a dream. Huge (15 cm in diameter) terry whisks from creamy cream to salmon. It blooms early, ready to grow in the sun, tolerates the lack of a strait, is not afraid of frost.

Daylily Red Rum Hemerocallis Red Rum photo

Red Rum - scarlet inflorescences with a diameter of 10 cm delight in the period June-August.

Daylily Black Stockings Hemerocallis Black Stockings photo

Black Stockings is new (released in 2015). It strikes with a corolla diameter of 15 cm and a purple-violet tint of petals, a yellowish core illuminates from the inside. The edges of the petals are corrugated.

Daylily Little Anna Rosa Hemerocallis Little Anna Rosa photo

Little Anna Rosa is a miniature 40 cm tall, the corolla diameter is 8 cm. The core is a rich lemon color, the petals are a soft pink shade with corrugated edges. Has 2 waves of flowering.

Daylily Mildred Mitchell Hemerocallis Mildred Mitchell photo

Mildred Mitchell - huge corollas (18 cm in diameter) open in June-July, repeating flowering in autumn. The coloring is the most delicate, in pink-purple tones.

Daylily Burgundy love Hemerocallis Burgundy Love photo

Burgundy Love - you can expect 2-3 waves of flowering from him. Corrugated petals have a noble burgundy hue.

Daylilies in garden design photo selection:

Daylilies in the design of the garden photo flower beds

Daylily photo in the garden in the flowerbed

daylily border

Daylilies in mixed planting photo

Daylilies in landscape design photo

Daylilies as a fence decoration photo

Daylilies with hostas in the flowerbed photo

Daylilies with other flowers in a flower bed

Daylilies in the flowerbed photo

Daylilies in landscape design photo

Daylilies in the garden photo

Glade of daylilies photo

How to plant daylilies photo with other flowers

Kind: lily
Flowering period: May, June, July, August, September, October
Height: 20-250cm
Colour: white, yellow, orange, red, spotted, double color
perennial
hibernates
sun-loving
moisture-loving

Lily is an amazingly beautiful flower with a pleasant aroma, which was revered in many cultures. The Greeks attributed to her a divine origin, believing that the lily grew from the milk of Juno, the mother of the gods. And when literally translated from Greek, “li-li” sounds like “white-white”. The Romans revered her as the main flower at the festivities glorifying the goddess of spring Flora. Christians and Jews adorn their sacred altars with it, considering the lily a symbol of purity. This flower can be found on the coats of arms of noble families from different countries. Today, lilies adorn many parks and suburban areas, acting as a bright accent in any flower garden. One of the prerequisites for the lush flowering of these marvelous plants is the proper planting and care of lilies.

Selection of planting material
Choice of landing site
Proper soil preparation
Daylily - a lily for the lazy

The main groups and popular varieties of lilies

According to the international classification, these flowering perennial bulbous plants are divided into 9 groups:

Asian- include 5 thousand varieties. Differ in unpretentiousness and winter hardiness, flowers do not smell.
Curly- there are 200 varieties. The name was given due to the inflorescences resembling a candlestick with drooping heads.
snow white– includes 30 varieties. They have a marvelous aroma, may have a pale yellow color. Very capricious.
American- there are 140 varieties. The flowers are very original in bright exotic colors, often decorated with two-tone black specks. Pretty picky.
Longiflora- have an elongated bud shape with a direction to the side or down, Unusually fragrant. In garden conditions, they often suffer from viral diseases, more are grown as greenhouse crops.
Tubular- have a characteristic flower shape resembling an elongated gramophone, assembled from dense wax petals. Capricious, need shelter for the winter.
Orientals (Eastern)- a large group has 1300 varieties. Capricious, demanding of warmth, often affected by diseases.
Interspecific hybrids- combine the best qualities of individual groups. Extremely beautiful and exotic. Among the varieties obtained as a result of crossing, the most popular are LA hybrids, OT hybrids and LO hybrids with large flowers up to 25 cm in diameter for forcing.
natural views– play a key role in the creation of new varieties.

Under natural conditions, these herbaceous plants are ubiquitous in the temperate latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere: in the Mediterranean, southeastern Central America, Japan, and China. The most widespread in the middle latitudes are Asian lily hybrids.

Lilies are one of the most beautiful representatives of the bulbous genus. They belong to the family of daylilies and are relatives of onions, hazel grouse, tulips.

Asians are descended from natural species of Siberian lilies, such as Dahurian and Tiger, and therefore are the most winter-hardy and adapted to less favorable climatic conditions. Other groups of lilies, such as oriental, tubular or curly, require more careful care.

Among Asian hybrids, the most decorative varieties are:

"Marlene" - petals of a delicate pink hue. It is famous for its abundant flowering.
"Landini" is a spectacular maroon beauty over a meter high.
"Aphrodite" - a double flower with pink petals.

Of the old and time-tested varieties, it is also worth highlighting: "Inchantment" with flowers of a rich red-orange hue, "Destin" with delicate lemon-yellow petals, "Peprike" with bright red flowers.

Worthy representatives of the Oriental group can be considered: "Mona Liza" with graceful pale pink flowers, "Tiber" with lilac flowers framed by a white border, snow-white beauty "Siberia"

Selection of planting material

When choosing planting material, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the area, since not all lilies are able to painlessly endure temperature fluctuations.

When purchasing planting material, carefully inspect the bulb: for spots and traces of rot on it. These signs indicate the defeat of the plant by diseases. The bulb should be evenly colored, the scales should fit snugly against each other.

Labeling will help determine the varietal affiliation of a plant:

The first Roman numeral denotes the lily group;
The second number indicates the position of the flower ("a" - directed upwards, "b" - to the side, "c" - down);
The letter through a fraction indicates the shape of the flower ("a" - tubular, "b" - cupped, "c" - flat, "d" - chalmoid).

Until the moment of planting, it is better to store the bulbs in a cool place, sprinkled with sand, sawdust or wet moss. Some adapt the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for this purpose.

For spring planting, choose bulbs on which sprouts have already hatched and short white roots have started to grow.

In the case when the bulb begins to germinate ahead of time, it is advisable to plant it in a flower pot, leaving it in a warm room. It is worth replanting in open ground after frost.

Choice of landing site

When planning where to place an exotic beauty on the site, you should focus on her group affiliation. Tubular, Asian and Oriental lines are most decorative only in well-lit areas.

Lilies feel comfortable in partial shade, in which adventitious roots are located on the underground part of the stem. These include varieties of the group of curly lilies. It is desirable to place them so that the basal part is shaded, and the inflorescence is illuminated by the sun's rays.

Lily is a heat-loving plant that prefers well-lit areas, securely covered with a "screen" of green foliage from gusts of wind

Lilies with large flowers look spectacular in a solo performance. When planting small-flowered lilies, in order to obtain an expressive aesthetic effect, it is better to form small groups, placing them at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Against the background of the lush foliage of other perennials, bright elegant flowers will stand out favorably, creating a magnificent picture.

For planting flowers, areas located on a slight elevation are ideal. This helps to prevent stagnant rainwater, which often causes plant damage by pathogens. Waterlogged soils are detrimental to fastidious beauties. It is possible to improve conditions on clay and heavy loamy soils by arranging drainage. To do this, lay ditches, placing them at a slight slope. The bottom of the ditches is lined with a layer of crushed brick or small gravel, sprinkled with river sand on top and covered with earth.

So that the soil near the root area of the flower is in the shade and does not overheat under the sun's rays, it is better to plant daylilies, bells and hosts in the immediate vicinity. Their sprawling foliage will cover the surface of the earth, creating optimal conditions for the development of fastidious beauties.

Proper soil preparation

Proper soil is 80% of success in growing lilies. Regardless of the group affiliation of the bulbous, they all prefer to grow on rich soils.

On peat enriched and well-drained soils, varieties of the American group and oriental hybrids develop well.

The best fertilizer for lilies is humus. But it should be applied with caution: with an excess of nutrition, the plants begin to “fatten”. This provokes their slowdown in development, a decrease in resistance to diseases and a decrease in frost resistance. The optimal ratio of the introduced humus is 7-8 kg per 1 sq.m.

The introduction of slightly decomposed manure containing pathogenic microflora with pathogenic plants can have a detrimental effect on plants.

The soil under these flowering herbaceous plants must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients, because in one place the plant can live from 3 to 5 years. When digging the soil, it is filled with mineral fertilizers, which include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. They are applied at the rate of 100 grams per square meter.

Since the roots of plants go quite deep, the soil is dug up before planting, deepening by 30-40 cm. To drain heavy clay soil, sand is added to its composition

Most representatives of the daylily family do not tolerate acidic soils, preferring slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soil compositions. On acidic, well-drained soil, only varieties of the eastern group feel comfortable. Asians and LA hybrids are more fond of neutral and humus soils, and tubular lilies show the greatest decorative effect on poor, slightly alkaline soil with impurities of ash and sand.

Help reduce soil acidity:

Wood ash - it is added at the rate of 150-200 g per 1 sq.m;
Chalk - when digging, 300-500 gr. are added per square meter.

Planting material processing

The bulbs are inspected before planting, discarding diseased specimens: damaged tissues are removed, rotten scales and dead roots are cut off.

The inspected material is washed under pressure for 20-30 minutes. Then, in order to prevent the development of fungal diseases, they are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate, prepared in a proportion of 5 g per 10 liters of water, and then in a solution of the drug fundazol. If necessary, they can be pickled in an insecticidal solution based on chlorophos and 1% phosphamide.

The root system of these plants dries quickly enough. Therefore, after soaking, there is no need to dry them.

Choosing a planting time

The optimal planting time is after the flowering of the plants. This is the period from late summer to mid-autumn. In the case of purchasing bulbs in early spring, planting can be done as soon as the soil thaws and dries. Late spring planting is risky because young shoots can be damaged.

Spring planting is also more suitable for late-flowering varieties, the bulbs of which are slowly formed. These include LO hybrids and varieties of the eastern group: Rio Negro, White Haven, Rialto, Marco Polo.

When planting plants, one should be guided by the rule that large bulbs with a diameter of 8-12 cm are planted to a depth of 25 cm, and small ones to a depth three times the size of the bulb itself.

The only exceptions are Halntsedonskaya, Snow White and Testaceum. They form an aboveground rosette of leaves, and therefore the soil layer above them should not exceed 2-3 cm.

When planting bulbs in heavy soil types, the bottom of the planting pits is covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. To protect them from voles, wire mesh is laid out along the inner walls of the landing pit.

The bulb is laid out on the bottom of the pit, set on an impromptu sand "cushion", and the roots are straightened. They cannot be twisted and bent up. The landing site is marked with a peg and sprinkled with earth, lightly tamping. The hole is abundantly watered with settled water and covered with bark mulch.

Lilies are very sensitive to dry roots. So that the bulbs do not become weathered while the hole is being prepared, it is better to wrap them in a wet napkin or hide them in a box with wet peat. Tender young sprouts are afraid of temperature changes

To protect young sprouts, planted bulbs are covered with plastic bottles with cut-out bottoms. For this purpose, it is better to use bottles with wide walls with a volume of 2-3 liters.

Subtleties in the care of an exotic beauty

How to care for lilies? To minimize the care of these flowering plants, you must follow a number of recommendations:

During the season, feed the plants with complex fertilizers and ash at the rate of 50 g per square meter. Top dressing is carried out in three stages: in early spring, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering. Suitable for spring root dressing: ammonium nitrate (40 g per 10 l), nitroammophosphate (50 g per 10 l), fermented mullein solution in a ratio of 1:10.
Ensure timely watering. Although the lily does not like excessive moisture, it needs frequent watering on especially dry days. You need to water under the root, trying not to moisten the leaves. Accidentally falling drops of water can serve as a kind of lens, causing sunburn.
Soil mulching. Very harmful for bulbous plants and overheating of the soil, which disrupts the flow of biological processes. This can be prevented by mulching the soil with natural materials of light shades (cut grass, straw, sawdust).
Pest control. The lily beetle and the lily fly are dangerous for the aerial parts of plants. You can get rid of pests by collecting the larvae by hand and spraying the stems with preparations such as Thunder, Grizzly, Fly Eater.
Stem tie. Tall varieties with thin stems must be tied to supports, thereby preventing them from breaking off and lodging.
So that wilted inflorescences after flowering do not spoil the picture, they should be removed in a timely manner. Peduncles are removed at the end of the season.
After the end of the growing season, the stems of plants must be cut and burned so that in winter they do not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.
For the winter, it is advisable to cover garden lilies with leafy soil, sawdust or coniferous spruce branches. Only Asian and LA hybrids do not need shelter.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, once every three years, one and a half months after the end of flowering. By this period, they had increased their mass and were gaining the greatest strength.

Slowly growing varieties of Caucasian origin are best planted only after 5-6 years. Asian varieties can be transplanted even in summer. The main thing is to dig up the plants with a garden pitchfork along with a clod of earth, preserving the root system.

When transplanting, baby bulbs are carefully separated from the stem and planted in seedling beds for growing. Immediately after planting, they are sprinkled with compost or manure humus, forming a layer 3-4 cm thick. Full-fledged bulbs will form from them in the second or third year.

Daylily - a lily for the lazy

No wonder breeders called these unpretentious and disease-resistant perennials "lilies for the lazy." And the statement that the more beautiful the flower, the more capricious it is, does not apply to this plant. Daylily grows well in any garden soil, feeling comfortable both in bright sun and in partial shade.

Not inferior in beauty to garden lilies and their closest "relatives" - daylilies, but unlike fastidious beauties, they are very easy to care for.

Planting and caring for daylilies takes a minimum of time and effort. And the plant begins to delight with flowering in the first year of planting. These perennials prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil. They are able to grow on depleted soils, but they show the greatest decorative effect on loose loams rich in organic matter. They are tolerant of infrequent watering, but like lilies, they do not tolerate stagnant water.

Perfectly combined with ornamental grasses and beautifully flowering annuals, they perfectly mask the slow departure of spring-flowering bulbs.

Daylilies can become a bright decoration of any flower garden. With the right selection of species that have different flowering periods, it will not be difficult to stretch the flowering of daylilies for the entire season.

Among flower growers, daylilies are rightfully considered one of the most unpretentious and grateful perennials. If the garden is decorated with daylilies, planting and caring for them in the open field will obviously not be a burden to the owner of the site.

Plants that love the sun feel good in partial shade, the main thing is that the plants are actively illuminated for at least 6 hours. Daylilies do not impose special requirements on the composition of the soil and can grow and bloom for many years in one place, forming dense lush curtains.

And yet, how to create the best conditions for growing these spectacular flowers? When to plant daylilies outdoors, in spring or autumn? How to care for plants at different times of the year?

Place for planting daylilies in the ground in spring

When choosing a site for a daylily, you need to consider that plants love the sun, are not afraid of the wind and develop well where other decorative perennials will feel depressed. At the same time, daylilies need freedom for free growth. They do not like it when there are large plants, shrubs and trees nearby, which become a kind of competitor for flowers for a place in the sun.

Experienced flower growers advise light varieties of daylilies to be planted in more lighted places, and for purple, red, multi-color varieties, for which color saturation is important, look for areas with slight shading.

To simplify the care of daylilies after they are planted in open ground, places for plants are chosen that are not flooded in the spring. In summer, powerful rhizomes of plants should not suffer from the close occurrence of groundwater.

The best time to plant daylilies on the site

Daylilies are a kind of long-livers. The most beautiful flowers, forming curtains decorated with multi-colored corollas, they can grow up to a decade and a half without a transplant. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for plants in the garden, and also know that flowering will be as lush as possible only 5–7 years. Then the peduncles among the dense foliage appear less frequently, and the flowers on them are much smaller than before. Therefore, every few years, plants are transplanted, dividing adult perennials.

Unpretentious culture easily tolerates this procedure from early spring to autumn. But planting daylilies in the ground in spring always goes without complications, delenki quickly take root and grow, blooming in the same season.

Spring weather is changeable, and if there is a danger of frost, it is better to postpone planting. Planting material acquired or obtained after dividing one's own plants can be stored for about a month by digging the plant's root system into sand, peat-sand substrate, or laying it with a damp rag. At the same time, leaf plates of daylilies are cut by half or a third to reduce the plant's need for moisture.

If the summer is not hot, and for daylilies when planting in the ground, as in spring, it is really possible to create comfortable conditions, nothing prevents you from decorating the garden until autumn. But during the autumn planting, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root well, and next year, if they survive, they will be very weakened.

How to plant daylilies in spring

Before transferring the seedlings to the garden, they need to be prepared for planting:

Daylily delenki inspect, remove damaged, dry or rotten roots.
Sections are treated with charcoal or activated charcoal crushed to a powder consistency.
If this has not been done before, the foliage is cut 10–15 cm above the base of the leaf blades.

Often, planting material purchased in a store has dried up by the time the daylily is planted in open ground, and caring for such a plant begins with a 4-hour soaking of the root system in a growth stimulator.

The place has been chosen, the planting material is waiting to be transferred to the ground. It remains only to prepare the soil suitable for daylilies and start planting. Ornamental perennials prefer a loose, light substrate with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

Before planting daylilies in the spring, the soil at their future place of residence must be dug up to a full shovel bayonet. Next, make a planting hole, sufficient to accommodate the rhizomes. For more convenience:

a cone of loosened substrate is poured at the bottom;
a plant is placed on top of the soil;
rhizomes are carefully laid out on the soil;
sprinkle the underground part of the daylily with soil so that the root collar does not sink more than a couple of centimeters.

After planting is completed, the soil around is slightly tamped, and the daylily is watered.

To reduce evaporation of moisture, the soil under the plants can be mulched using any available means, such as rotted bark or needles, straw, or specialized material.

Care for daylilies after planting in open ground

Regular care of plants after planting consists of watering, loosening the soil and removing weeds.

In the warm season, actively growing and flowering perennials require a lot of water. If daylilies are thirsty, this can be seen by faded foliage, refusal to form or dropping buds. Perennials respond well to additional air humidification in summer. Therefore, daylilies can be planted near water bodies or use very shallow sprinkling;

In hot weather, daylilies are watered abundantly, so that the soil under them gets wet by 20-30 cm, that is, to the depth of the root system.
If the summer is not hot, you can reduce the frequency of watering, but you need to monitor the standing of the foliage.

The best time to water daylilies is early morning or evening when there is no risk of sunburn on the flowers.

With proper planting and care, daylily flowers, as in the photo, appear that same summer. In the first year, the plants are not additionally fed. The application of complex fertilizers for flowering ornamental crops begins next spring. When choosing a product, it is better to give preference to compositions with a moderate nitrogen content, which causes foliage growth to the detriment of flowering. During the summer, perennials are fed twice, and closer to autumn, plants receive potassium-phosphorus fertilizers for better preparation for winter.

Plants are hardy, but can suffer when there is too little snow in the area. Therefore, in snowless winters, it is better to cover daylilies with spruce branches, needles, straw and other improvised materials. As soon as mass melting of snow begins, daylilies are released, otherwise prel develops on the root collars of plants.