Before buying a seedling of a plant in a store or on the market, similar to the one that grows with a neighbor and you really liked it, it will not be superfluous to find out: is it possible to try to get a young seedling from a cutting? Of course, among many plants, not all of them take root well, but there are those that do not take root at all. However, there are a number of plants that in this case behave quite unpretentiously.

The benefits of cuttings

And yet, why cuttings?

Firstly, in this case, you are guaranteed to receive exactly the variety that caused you delight and desire to have it on your site.

Secondly, you pay absolutely nothing for a seedling, but just waste a little of your time. But - compared to how much time you lose if the purchased seedling you grow in a few years produces a crop of a completely different variety, or an ornamental plant blooms not pink, but white - it's worth it.

Thirdly, you gain valuable experience that will surely come in handy in the future.

Mature magnolia can also be propagated by cuttings.

Fourthly, cuttings can be harvested a lot, and then the resulting young seedlings can be exchanged with neighbors, sold or simply donated.

So, what plants can be safely planted with cuttings?

Tamarix

- a very beautiful frost-resistant ornamental plant that you probably saw in your city. Usually they decorate green recreation areas, front gardens, park areas and even road rings. Tamarix blooms with millions of tiny pale pink flowers several times a season.

Tamarix cuttings do not have to be harvested in the fall and then worry about whether they will last until spring. It is enough at the end of the season, when the plant is already "sleeping", to cut the cuttings about 40 cm long and plant them directly in the ground, burying them halfway, and then water them well and mulch for the winter. From spring, it is necessary to ensure watering of the cuttings, adding a root formation stimulator to the water every other month.

But the most effective for tamarix is ​​the spring harvesting of cuttings. In early March, we cut cuttings from tamarix bushes, and then put them in jars of water, 3-5 pieces each. We do not add any root stimulant. We maintain the water at a constant level and completely replace it once a week. After 2 weeks, roots will appear on the surface of the underwater part of the cutting, and after a month and a half, the entire jar will be filled with roots.

In the second or third year after rooting, tamarix will bloom magnificently

Next, we plant the rooted cuttings directly into the ground or place each young seedling in a separate container with prepared soil. It should be noted that when planting in the fall, more powerful and thick one- and two-year-old cuttings are selected, and when planting in the spring, annual cuttings of any size are preferable.

Japanese quince or chaenomeles

Cuttings can also be planted in both autumn and spring. Japanese quince bushes reproduce by underground shoots that can emerge from the ground more than a meter from the center of the mother plant. Unlike other shrubs, these shoots may not have roots at all, since the entire underground part of the shoot is one large root, which also receives nutrition from the main plant.

An adult bush has many side shoots

When separated from the mother plant, the shoot can later independently exist in the ground, bloom and bear fruit, while a powerful branched root system can form only after a few years.

If you extract such a separate flowering shoot from the ground even in the second year after separation from the main bush, then you can often see the same completely bare (without additional roots) stem of the shoot. This speaks in favor of the fact that its entire underground part plays the role of a root.

Quince before flowering

Therefore, cuttings (in fact, these are layers) of quince must be harvested by digging up such shoots and separating them from the bush 20-30 cm below ground level. Planted, such a cutting, with timely watering, will soon turn into a luxurious flowering bush.

Japanese quince stalk in spring

In fairness, it should be noted that chaenomeles takes root well even when cuttings are taken only from the aerial part of the bush. In this case, the stalk must be cut as long as possible and buried when planting.

Actinidia

takes root quite well when planted by cuttings immediately into the ground before winter or early spring. The principle used here is the same as in the case of tamariks. The main condition is to ensure timely watering (once a week). Sand can be added to the ground when planting.

For the winter, the soil around the cuttings must be covered, for example, with spruce branches or cut branches, a grape vine. In summer, to prevent drying out, the soil must be mulched. Frost-resistant varieties can not be additionally covered, non-frost-resistant varieties can be covered according to the principle of grapes.

But it must be remembered that not all actinidia have the same hard crust structure. For example, in the case of the covering bisexual variety Jenny in the spring, you need to be very careful, because with sudden movements, the hairy, pliable bark of a plant of this variety can peel off and peel off the trunk.

The upper part of the plant died due to damage to the bark.

But if you take precautions, then already in the second year after planting, the growth can be about 0.3-0.5 m (in adult plants - at least 1 m), and the plant itself will be strong and will have lush foliage and shoots.

According to observations of three years, the best survival was observed in female plants of same-sex varieties.

Jasmine

A large number of varieties of jasmine or not difficult to grow from cuttings. can be planted with cuttings both before winter and in spring, getting them directly from mother plants immediately before planting.

Jasmine cuttings in spring. Landing was carried out before winter

Due to its unpretentiousness, half of all cuttings of jasmine and mock orange take root perfectly without any stimulants, and a strong cutting planted before winter can, like Japanese quince, bloom in the very first spring.

When transplanting large side shoots of jasmine without roots, they can release foliage only after a season, standing all year with bare branches, forming and growing at this time the root system and shedding small branches.

Observing in this case completely bare branches with the absence of any reaction to caring for the plant, you should not despair ahead of time, because if you cut off part of the branch with a pruner, you can see living green wood. Therefore, when planting, such shoots are buried and cut off 30-40 cm from the ground.

Blueberry

Having planted a broken branch in the ground in autumn or spring, in the summer you can be surprised to find that it has taken root and spread its leaves.

We plant a branch in the ground and shade

At the same time, the accustomed branch in the first year reacts extremely negatively even to the slightest drought and can shed all the leaves, so the trunk circle must be mulched when the heat sets in.

Honeysuckle

when rooting cuttings, it behaves in the same way as jasmine. It is unpretentious, able to take root well even with two-three-year-old cuttings.

Mature honeysuckle bush

If you plant a whole branch of an adult bush as a cutting, then the excess of small branches must be removed.

When planting, we deepen the entire branch so that new shoots can appear from under the ground.

Blackberry large-fruited

, for example, Thornfree and similar large-fruited varieties are not at all difficult to grow from cuttings. In autumn or spring, we cut off a thick one-year-old cutting with 4-5 buds about half a meter long and plant it in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees, leaving 2 buds above the ground. We water abundantly.

You can also plant thinner branch ends. In this case, the underground part should be as long as possible. For the winter, we cover the cuttings with spruce branches.

In the spring, leaves will appear from above-ground buds, and the strongest cuttings can bloom even in the first year.

Future blackberry bush

If the winter was not snowy, and the aerial part was frozen, young shoots will appear from under the ground.

Blackberry cuttings are very tenacious

Watering such cuttings is done once every 1-2 weeks.

Grape

can be planted with cuttings immediately in the ground both in spring and before winter. In autumn, before sheltering for the winter, we cut cuttings with 4 buds and plant them immediately in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees so that one bud remains above the ground and the second is at ground level.

Overwintered stalk in spring

The number of kidneys is not important, you can leave more. We cover with spruce.

Spring planting is similar, but before planting, we keep the cuttings overnight in a root stimulator. In spring and summer, water the cuttings once a week so that the soil does not dry out. Shade if necessary.

This ornamental plant takes root quite well. When planting prepared branches, they should be placed at an angle of 45 degrees or more (creeping varieties) to the surface of the earth, so that when watering, moisture reaches the entire underground part of the branch. At the same time, they deepen most of the branch. Vertically growing varieties are planted vertically.

When preparing planting material for cuttings, it is worth choosing branches located as low as possible to the ground or lying on the ground, since they already have pronounced outgrowths on the bark, from which roots will appear in the future.
The end of October. It's time to take cuttings

In the future, from spring, it will be necessary to water the branch once a week, in the first month adding a root formation stimulator to the water every other time, and provide shading from the sun, as well as mulch the soil of the near-stem circle.

Young plant from cuttings

When planted by cuttings, sakura can bloom in the same year.

Results

Here are the most unpretentious plants that I managed to grow from cuttings on my site. Separately, it is worth noting that for these plants it is possible not to use various root formation stimulants at all. The main condition for success here is the timely watering, mulching and shading of plants.

If possible, then the best result can be achieved by preparing a full-fledged layering with a root system for the season. And for this, you just need to find good-natured neighbors who will suddenly forget about all their affairs and, with undisguised joy and awe, will rush to grow for you everything that you noticed from them.

Therefore, I wish everyone good luck in experiments on growing from cuttings!

I had to propagate by cuttings different types of perennial plants - indoor and garden.
.

Perennial cutting technique

From a healthy and well-developed, mature mother plant, cut off a few sprouts, but not more than a third of the number of shoots from one bush.
The length of the cutting is 5–7 cm. It is better if the cutting is with a “heel” or part of the rhizome.

Plant the resulting cuttings to a depth of 1.5-2 cm in a pot, in a light, moist one. Or immediately into garden soil, on top of which clean sand is poured with a layer of at least 2-3 cm.

Cover the top of the cuttings with plastic / glass jars or film.
Be sure to shade the plantings, avoiding direct sun.

Plants rooting under banks should be periodically ventilated, sprayed and watered.

Usually after two weeks, young plants are already forming roots.
Remove the "greenhouse" shelters from the cuttings that have started to grow.
Accustom sun-loving plants to direct sunlight.

A few days later, after adapting to new conditions, successfully rooted cuttings can be planted in the garden in a permanent place.

Now, in May, is the time for cuttings of perennials.
Good luck plant lovers!

Zelenskaya Larisa Mikhailovna (St. Petersburg)

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We start cuttings: how it's done

Propagation of ornamental plants, especially shrubs and conifers, using cuttings allows you to get proven planting material and grow a wide range of trees and shrubs at no cost. At the same time, the process of cuttings, at first glance very simple, is fraught with many subtleties that are learned only from one's own experience. Tatyana POPOVA, a gardener-practitioner from St. Petersburg, tells about them.

Rooting cuttings

Rooting cuttings is very individual. Some species take root always and easily, others only under certain conditions, and others do not take root at all. There are many industrial and semi-industrial methods of cutting plants, mainly in closed ground, using fogging installations. These methods increase the percentage of rooting, reduce the time, make it possible to root capricious cuttings. Amateur flower growers can also master such methods, but this requires investment and is quite laborious. This article will discuss the rooting of plants in the ground, which is available to any gardener.

In the process of cuttings of all plants, there is much in common, but there are some individual characteristics in species and even varieties. Therefore, we first consider the general principles, and then examples of cuttings of some crops. For good rooting, the terms of grafting, and the correct preparation of the cuttings, and the soils used, and the care of the cuttings, and their preparation for wintering are important. Let's consider these questions in more detail.

Preparation of cuttings

When preparing cuttings for planting, pay attention to the following:

Terms of harvesting cuttings, the degree of their lignification

The size of the cutting, the number of buds

Condition of the cutting: time of cutting, storage, presence of leaves

Treatment of cuttings with growth substances

Protection of cuttings from infection

Usually consider propagation by green or grassy, ​​semi-lignified and lignified cuttings. Herbaceous perennials reproduce best with green cuttings, semi-lignified - shrubs in summer, lignified - shrubs in early spring or autumn and conifers in spring.

Many shrubs: roses, hydrangeas, actinidia, clematis are very profitable to propagate with lignified last year's cuttings during spring pruning of plants, although the percentage of rooting in this case is not very high, and after a cold winter they can be frozen. You can prepare the same cuttings in the fall and store them without overdrying (for example, wrapped in sphagnum moss), in the basement, refrigerator, buried in a pit, or planted in boxes right in the fall and kept until spring at a positive temperature.

But best of all, most shrubs are cut in the summer in June or early July with semi-lignified shoots of the current year. Usually cuttings are cut at a time when the shoot itself is still green, and its base is already woody. For spring-blooming shrubs that form buds on last year's shoots, this is the time at the very end of flowering or after it (forsythia, actinidia, white-flowered spireas). For shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year, this is the period of the beginning of budding (hydrangeas, roses, pink-flowered spireas). Easily rooted shrubs can be propagated for a long period of time, and for those that take root more difficult, it is very important to choose the optimal cutting time.

Usually, a fairly long one-year-old shoot with or without a bud is cut, cut into pieces with two leaves or pairs of leaves and one internode, removing the top with a bud or unripe buds. The cuts on the handle are made oblique 1 cm above and below the buds (the base of the leaves). Small annual twigs, which are many in all shrubs, take root very well. It is good to root such a branch as a whole, pinching the top. The lower part of the cutting should be freed from leaves by about 5 cm. If there are a lot of leaves on the handle or they are large, some of them are removed to reduce evaporation.

It is better to cut the cuttings in the morning or in the evening from relatively young plants or from their younger part, the plants should not be overdried. It is necessary to ensure that the cuttings do not fade the leaves. Shoots cut into cuttings or prepared cuttings can be stored in water for some time.

To improve rooting it is desirable to treat the ends of the cuttings with root-forming substances: soak in a solution of heteroauxin or dip in root root powder. It is possible to carry out the beginning of rooting in a vessel with water and plant it for growing with short roots of 0.5-1.0 cm. But I prefer to root the cuttings immediately in the ground.

If plants are highly susceptible to diseases, such as roses, the cuttings can get sick and die during the rooting process (rose cuttings often turn black). For disinfection, it is desirable to pickle them in a solution of copper oxychloride, foundation, maxim, etc. The upper end of the cutting must be treated with green paint or a special rannet to protect against infection.

It is advisable to immediately prepare tags with the names of plants, planting dates, planting features. I usually make tags from aluminum cans, on which I squeeze out inscriptions with a ballpoint pen, you can make them from plastic bottles and write with a felt-tip pen.

soil for rooting

The following requirements are imposed on the soil for rooting:

Good moisture holding capacity

Breathability

No infection

The ability to hold an earthen ball well, not to crumble during transplantation

It is often recommended that for rooting cuttings on nutrient soil, pour coarse sand and plant the cuttings in the sand so that the growing roots go into the nutrient soil. But for me, this method of rooting did not give positive results: the cuttings did not stand well in the sand, the surface of the sand dried up a lot, when watering, the water rolled off the sandy surface and was absorbed unevenly. The best result was obtained when cuttings were planted in a mixture of coarse sand with peat or sphagnum moss, and for more moisture-loving plants, I increased the proportion of peat or sphagnum, and for plants prone to warming, the proportion of sand. When using sphagnum when transplanting, the soil does not crumble, and this makes it easier to extract rooted cuttings.

Just planted cuttings of mock orange and conifers: arborvitae, thuevica, juniper.

You can also plant cuttings in normal garden soil, adding peat to increase moisture capacity and coarse sand or perlite to improve breathability. Rooting soil should not be nutritious. Nutrition will be needed next year when growing young plants, and then they can be fertilized.

The soil should not be a source of infection. It is better to use fresh soil or shed it before planting with phytosporin, maxim, etc.

Planting cuttings and caring for them, shelter for the winter

In the process of planting and caring for cuttings, it is necessary to ensure:

Deepening of the lower kidney by 1 - 2 cm, tight fixing in the soil

Optimal humidity of air and soil in the cuttings

Removal of dead cuttings

Fight against moles and snails, pests and diseases

preparation for winter

Shelter cuttings for the winter

Timely opening in the spring

Growing rooted plants

Prepared cuttings need to be quickly planted in the cuttings. I usually plant the cuttings at an angle, maintaining the position of the top and bottom surfaces of the cutting, especially in flat-branched and coniferous plants, and press the base of the cuttings tightly. I plant in longitudinal or transverse rows with distances between them of 10-15 cm, the distance between the cuttings is 4-10 cm, depending on the size of the cuttings, and I put tags. I immediately water the cuttings abundantly from a watering can with a small strainer and correct those that have shifted. After 30-60 minutes of drying, so that the cuttings are not wet, I close the cuttings, as described above.

During the summer, about once every two weeks, the cuttings need to be opened, weeds and dead cuttings removed. A sign of their death is blackening or drying, premature yellowing or dropping of leaves. If the earth is dry, you need to water it from a watering can with a fine sieve or spray it for uniform moistening to a depth of at least 5 cm.

During the rooting of cuttings and the next year during growing, it is necessary to monitor the appearance of diseases and pests and take action in time. For preventive purposes and to improve the growth of cuttings, it is useful to spray them with phytosporin, growth stimulants (epin, zircon, etc.), and for better root formation with heteroauxin, root. It is necessary to monitor the appearance of moles, snails and fight them in a timely manner. In some plants, new shoots grow in the process of rooting and even buds may appear. Shoots need to be pinched, buds removed.

In August - September, when the cuttings are already rooted, the film from the cuttings must be removed, and it is better to leave lutrasil. Lutrasil does not allow cuttings to dry out quickly and protects them from dry leaves falling on them. In dry autumn, cuttings occasionally have to be watered.

Before the onset of winter at the end of September - October, the cuttings must be covered, after removing leaves, weeds and everything that can contribute to their decay from them. It is important to insulate them a little in case there is no snow, and carefully close the more heat-loving ones. The cuttings are easily undercooked in winter, therefore it is impossible to cover them with polyethylene and it is desirable to provide an air gap over them. For this, you can put spruce branches under the lutrasil, but I do it differently. On both sides of the cuttings I install low supports 15-30 cm from logs, bricks or small boxes, I put any slats, sticks, gratings on them and cover them with non-woven material in 1-2 layers. With such a shelter, the cuttings are very well preserved even in wet years and during the formation of crust due to frequent changes in weather.

In the spring, cuttings covered with lutrasil can be opened at different times, but not before the soil has completely melted. In early spring, the cuttings can be washed with melt water, dug up by moles, etc. It is necessary to straighten the cuttings, make sure that the roots are well sprinkled with earth. Usually, it is impossible to immediately plant such plants in a permanent place, they need to be grown. For this, you can transplant them to a special bed with good soil, more lit. But I usually leave them in place, remove the shade, feed them with a solution of mineral fertilizers, water them during the summer and plant them in a permanent place next spring. Some cuttings do not take root well in one year, for example, some conifers and rhododendrons. In this case, I keep them in a stalk under a film for two years.

Cuttings can be planted not only in cuttings, but also in small pots of 1 - 3 pieces. I do this with plants that don't like to be transplanted, like microbiota, junipers, and a few others. I dig the pots into the soil of the cuttings. Planting in pots increases the time spent on planting, but if necessary, the cuttings are easy to transfer and then plant in a permanent place.

Features of cuttings of some plants

Hydrangeas

Most types of hydrangea are cuttings very well at any time, but for paniculata, it is important to correctly determine the timing of cuttings. As soon as balls form at the ends of annual shoots - the embryos of buds, it's time to start cuttings. In large-leaved hydrangea, last year's branches with one-year growths take root very well. I often propagate branches cut in October before shelter. I cut them into pieces that have last year's lignified area and a green one-year-old shoot extending from it, from which I remove the top (usually this is an inflorescence). I immediately plant such cuttings on a bed covered with peat, and almost the entire cutting, except for the top, is covered with peat, watered and covered with thick lutrasil directly on the ground. In the spring I don’t take off Lutrasil for a long time, until the hydrangeas take root, I water it if necessary. By August, young plants are already well rooted and even bloom from buds laid on the mother plant. They can be removed, but the carpet of flowering hydrangea cuttings is very beautiful, and I did not notice the negative effect of flowering on the growth of seedlings.

The peculiarity of summer hydrangea cuttings is that in the year of rooting they almost never give growth, and only the green color of the leaves speaks of good condition and rooting. By autumn, the leaves turn yellow and partially fall off, but do not dry out.

Roses

The possibility of cuttings of roses is highly dependent on the group to which they belong, and even on the variety. Miniature roses, climbing ones, especially ramblers, many varieties of ground cover, hybrid tea and floribunda roses are cut very well. Varieties with yellow flowers take root worse and very badly - most varieties from the group of rugosa rose hybrids (wrinkled park roses).

Roses take root well last year's cuttings, which are easy to prepare when pruning roses in the fall. Such cuttings have to be stored until spring (for example, in sphagnum moss in the refrigerator or buried in the ground) or rooted indoors. The percentage of death of such cuttings during storage is quite high. But roses rooted in early spring grow well in summer, ripen and successfully winter. The semi-lignified shoots of the current year take root most easily during budding.

Long shoots with buds (one internode and two buds long) can be cut into cuttings, or smaller branches with several leaves and buds can be used as cuttings. It is better to root roses, and even more so to grow them, in lighter conditions. In the first year, shoots grow in roses, and it is advisable to pinch them when they reach 10 cm. Infection control and careful shelter for the winter are especially important for roses.

Clematis

Like roses, clematis root better in diffused light, and cuttings need to be protected from direct sunlight. When cutting with last year's lignified cuttings, they are cut with two pairs of buds and one internode without leaves, they are stored in winter in the same way as rose cuttings, but you can leave the lashes to winter on the mother plant or store whole lashes, and cut the cuttings in spring. The peculiarity of planting is that both pairs of buds must be buried in the soil, otherwise the growing young shoot may dry out. The cuttings are planted almost horizontally, so that the upper buds are at a depth of 1 cm, the lower 3 cm, and the upper ends of the cuttings stick out of the ground. Growing young shoots need to be pinched at a height of 10-15 cm. Such cuttings take root worse, but they winter better and give a well-developed young plant in one year.
Annual cuttings take root very easily. They need to be cut during budding. Only the middle part of the shoot goes to the cuttings. The lower part with simple leaves and the branched top with buds do not go to the cuttings. It is better to plant cuttings with one pair of leaves, and, accordingly, buds, leave 1-2 cm of the stem below, 2-3 cm on top, remove some of the leaf lobes and deepen the bud into the soil by 1 cm, so that the upper tip of the cutting and leaves stick out. It is important to protect clematis from fungal diseases.

coniferous plants

There are great differences in the possibility of rooting conifers of different species. Pine, fir, larch, prickly spruce and most varieties of common spruce practically do not take root. Yews, tueviki, thuja, juniper and cypress species take root very easily.

All conifers take root better in early spring in April - May, and easily rooted - throughout the summer. Some species and varieties, like rhododendrons, do not fully take root in one season, in the first year they form callus and rudiments of roots, and roots the next year. Such plants have to be kept in the cuttings for two years.

The size of the rooted cuttings can be different: the better the cuttings of a given species root, the larger they can be. In juniper, microbiota, nesting spruce, I root cuttings of 5-10 cm, and in yew and thuja up to 20-25 cm, which allows me to get quite large plants in one year. Cuttings with a heel take root better, but the bark should not lag behind the wood, the lagging piece of bark must be carefully cut off. From the bottom of the handle, you need to remove small twigs and needles (for species with needle needles).

When planting cuttings at an angle, it is important to keep their upper and lower surface, especially for species with flat branches, not to bury too much. Conifer cuttings more than others suffer from burns, overheating, and they need to be better shaded. They are also afraid of waterlogging, they often support. They should be watered moderately, closed only after drying, covered with spruce branches or lutrasil along the frame for the winter.

As well as shrubs and conifers, you can cut many herbaceous plants: phloxes, peonies, almost all ground cover plants.

Passion for cuttings of various plants allowed me, without material costs (all cuttings are made of auxiliary material, old film, fabric from old clothes), without wasting space (all cuttings are located under apple trees) to get several thousand new plants in recent years. At the same time, I significantly enriched the range of my plants, provided planting material not only for my friends and colleagues, but also for listeners of my lectures at the St. Petersburg Gardener's House.

For many trees and shrubs, green cuttings are one of the most productive methods of vegetative propagation. In June - early July, when the plants are in the phase of active growth, the best time for green cuttings comes.

With the help of green cuttings, many trees and shrubs can be propagated, but it must be borne in mind that the rooting ability of cuttings depends on the type and variety of the plant.

The method of propagation by green cuttings is based on the ability of stem cuttings to form adventitious roots, which is expressed to varying degrees in different plants. Herbaceous perennials and shrubs, which are younger in evolutionary terms, have the greatest ability to differentiate, and to a lesser extent, tree species, especially the most ancient conifers, although among them there are species with a high ability to root by green cuttings. Easily rooted are creepers (clematis, grapes, parthenocissus, actinidia, petiole hydrangea), many shrubs (mock oranges, lilacs, hydrangeas, privet, honeysuckle). For roses, it is advisable to use cuttings only for small-leaved groups, the main assortment of varietal roses grows better and overwinters on a rootstock.

The process of formation of adventitious roots on cuttings begins with the formation of callus as a reaction to injury. Callus gives the cuttings resistance to adverse environmental conditions and the penetration of infections. Callus formation is most pronounced in hard-to-root plants.

Procurement of cuttings

Green cuttings are leafy parts of the stem with one or more buds. It is preferable to take cuttings from young plants, very old mother liquors are preliminarily subjected to rejuvenating pruning. The best material for cuttings are lateral shoots formed on last year's growths in the lower, but well-lit part of the crown, which have large developed buds and do not show signs of disease. Vertically growing, as well as ankle-growing top shoots will take root worse, as they contain an insufficient amount of carbohydrates necessary for successful rooting.

In the process of harvesting cuttings, it is important to ensure the preservation of moisture in the tissues, on which the success of rooting largely depends. Shoots are cut in the early morning, when all the tissues of the plant are saturated with moisture. At all stages of working with cuttings, they should not be allowed to dry out; cut shoots should be immediately placed in water in the shade. Start cutting the cuttings as soon as possible. If transportation is required, the cuttings, without spraying with water, are placed obliquely in a container with wet sphagnum. In this package, they can be stored in the refrigerator, but the total duration of storage should not exceed 2 days.

Cuttings are cut 8-12 cm long with two or three internodes; plants with short internodes may have more. In a number of plants - roses, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, grapes, mock oranges, lilacs, cuttings with one axillary bud, called leaf-buds, take root well. Such cuttings make it possible to obtain a large amount of planting material of valuable species and varieties in the presence of a small amount of material for cuttings. When cutting at the optimum time, it is better to use the middle and lower, in the later stages - the upper part of the shoot. Cutting is done on a hard board with a very sharp tool - a grafting knife or blade that does not squeeze the tissue. The lower cut is made oblique to increase the suction surface, 1 cm below the kidney, the upper one is straight, directly above the kidney. In large-leaved plants (for example, lilac, viburnum, vesicle), to reduce the area of ​​​​evaporation, leaf blades are cut by ½ or 1/3, but in hard-to-root, as well as variegated, yellow-leaved, purple forms with a low chlorophyll content, this technique must be used carefully, since assimilation may not be sufficient to ensure root formation. It would be good to truncate the leaf blades even before cutting the cuttings, this will also reduce moisture loss. The cuttings are sprayed with water and placed before planting under a non-woven covering material to prevent them from wilting.

To increase the effectiveness of rooting, simple techniques are used: cutting the bark near the buds by 2 mm, bending the branches, banding with copper wire or etiolation of the shoots. All these measures help prevent the outflow of carbohydrates and growth substances - auxins from the shoots. Etiolation is carried out by tying the shoot with foil, paper or black non-woven material 2-3 weeks before cuttings. In the shoot, the metabolism is redistributed and the efficiency of rooting increases.

Rooting Efficiency Improvement Methods

It is known that the process of root regeneration is regulated by growth substances - auxins, carbohydrates and nitrogenous substances. In many species and varieties, under the influence of growth regulators, the percentage of rooted cuttings, the number of roots, the quality of plants increase, and the time of rooting is reduced. Some hard-to-root crops become easy-to-root, but sometimes, depending on the biological characteristics of a particular species or variety, there may be no reaction to stimulants.

Good root stimulants are:

Heteroauxin (indoleacetic acid (IAA)) - from 50 to 200 mg / l,

Kornevin (indolylbutyric acid (IMA)) - 1 g / l of water,

Zircon (a mixture of hydroxycinnamic acids) - 1 ml / l of water.

Processing with stimulants should be done in the dark, at a temperature of + 18 ... + 22 degrees. The cuttings are immersed in the solution so that the leaves are not processed. The concentration of the solution and the exposure time must be maintained accurately, their excess may lead not to an increase in the effect, but to a toxic effect. Therefore, it is better to use Kornevin in solution and withstand strict exposure for 16-20 hours, and not to dust the cuttings with it.

Planting cuttings

Finished cuttings are planted in pre-prepared breeding ridges, which are arranged in the shade (in most cases, the optimal illumination for successful rooting is 50-70%). Rooting proceeds better when the temperature of the substrate is 3-5 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. To create such conditions, biological fuel is laid at the bottom of the ridge - horse manure with a layer of 25-30 cm, which, decomposing, forms heat and provides lower heating to the cuttings. Next, fertile soil is poured with a layer of 15 cm, and finally, a substrate for rooting with a layer of 3-4 cm. As such a substrate, you can use a mixture of neutral peat with sand in a ratio of 1:1 or 2:1 with the addition of finely chopped sphagnum moss, which has and bactericidal properties. It is useful to shed the substrate with one of the preparations - Radiance, Baikal, Revival, Fitosporin to suppress pathogenic microflora. The same preparations can be used in the process of caring for cuttings, adding to irrigation water 1 time in 1-2 weeks.

The cuttings are planted at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. From above, the ridge is covered with glass, plastic wrap or non-woven covering material along arcs at a height of 25 cm from the cuttings. Each of these materials has its drawbacks - in the heat, under polyethylene and glass, the temperature can rise too much, and it is more difficult to maintain high humidity under a non-woven covering material. For most trees and shrubs, the optimum temperature is + 20 ... + 26 degrees and humidity 80-90%. In industrial environments, humidity is maintained by foggers that spray moisture at regular intervals. At home, the cuttings are sprayed with water several times a day. Cuttings should be regularly examined, fallen leaves and unattached specimens should be removed.

With the beginning of rooting, the plantings are ventilated, opening the film first for 1-2 hours, each time increasing the time, the number of sprayings is reduced. After hardening the rooted cuttings, the film is removed. A month later, they are fed with liquid complex mineral fertilizer.

A small number of cuttings can be rooted in boxes by pouring 8-10 cm of soil and 1.5-2 cm of river sand. 1-3 cuttings can be rooted in a pot, covered with a transparent plastic bottle with a cut bottom. Removing the cap from the neck, it is convenient to carry out ventilation. It is convenient to move pots or boxes with rooted cuttings for the winter to the basement for the winter.

The cuttings rooted in the cuttings are left in the ground, covered with a dry leaf for the winter, or dug up and stored in the refrigerator or dug in the basement, at a temperature of +1 ... +2 degrees.

In the spring, the cuttings are transplanted into the "school" for 2-3 years for growing, then transplanted to a permanent place.

The table presents data on the effectiveness of green cuttings in different crops*:

	plant type	Cutting period	Rooting temperature	Rooting percentage	rooting time, days	The need for root stimulants
	polyanthus, climbing small-leaved, patio, miniature	Budding - the beginning of flowering (semi-woody cuttings)		on average, 83.9%, in some varieties up to 100%	from 10-15 to 28
	Common lilac: Early varieties Late varieties C. hungarian S. Wolf C. hairy S. Zvyagintseva	flowering phase flowering phase Attenuation, but not stopping the growth of shoots				IMC 25-50 g/l
Clematis		Budding - the beginning of flowering (cuttings from the middle part of the shoot)		40-100% depending on the variety		IMC 25-30 g/l, 12-24 hours
Chubushnik		Attenuation of shoot growth - the beginning of flowering
	Spring flowering species Summer flowering species	Beginning - ser. VI Con. VI - ser. VII		from 30 to 100% in different species		IMC 25-100 g/l increases rooting by 10-15%
forsythia	F. ovoid	Attenuation of shoot growth (first half of VI)
	K. ordinary "Roseum" (Buldenezh) K. pride	Mass flowering period				IMC 25-50 g/l or heteroauxin 50-100 g/l
Cotoneaster	K. brilliant K. horizontal	Con. VI - beginning. VII
	D. rough	Beginning VI - ser. VII				0.01% IMC, 16 h
Privet	B. vulgaris	Ser. VI - beginning. VII
	D. male D. offspring
Honeysuckle	J. offspring J. Hekrota J. Tatar J. blue (f. edible)	End of shoot growth
Hydrangea	G. paniculata D, treelike G. Bretschneider G. petiolate					Responsive to IMC
Rhododendron	R. pontic R. katevbinsky R. japanese					IMC 50 mg/l Opudr. 2% IMC 0.005% IMC, 17 h
Actinidia	A. acute A. kolomikta
	C. tannery	Con. VI - beginning. VII

Green cuttings in August. Video lessons. Green cuttings are one of the most productive methods of vegetative propagation. In July - early August, when the plants are in the phase of active growth, the best time for green cuttings comes.

With the help of green cuttings, many trees and shrubs can be propagated, but it must be borne in mind that the rooting ability of cuttings depends on the type and variety of the plant. The method of propagation by green cuttings is based on the ability of stem cuttings to form adventitious roots, which is expressed to varying degrees in different plants. Herbaceous perennials and shrubs, which are younger in evolutionary terms, have the greatest ability to differentiate, and to a lesser extent, tree species, especially the most ancient conifers, although among them there are species with a high ability to root by green cuttings. Easily rooted are creepers (clematis, grapes, parthenocissus, actinidia, petiole hydrangea), many shrubs (mock oranges, lilacs, hydrangeas, privet, honeysuckle). For roses, it is advisable to use cuttings only for small-leaved groups, the main assortment of varietal roses grows better and overwinters on a rootstock.

Cuttings are cut 8-12 cm long with two or three internodes; plants with short internodes may have more. In a number of plants - roses, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, grapes, mock oranges, lilacs, cuttings with one axillary bud, called leaf-buds, take root well. Such cuttings make it possible to obtain a large amount of planting material of valuable species and varieties in the presence of a small amount of material for cuttings. When cutting at the optimum time, it is better to use the middle and lower, in the later stages - the upper part of the shoot. Cutting is done on a hard board with a very sharp tool - a grafting knife or blade that does not squeeze the tissue. The lower cut is made oblique to increase the suction surface, 1 cm below the kidney, the upper one is straight, directly above the kidney.

In large-leaved plants (for example, lilac, viburnum, vesicle), to reduce the area of ​​​​evaporation, leaf blades are cut by ½ or 1/3, but in hard-to-root, as well as variegated, yellow-leaved, purple forms with a low chlorophyll content, this technique must be used carefully, since assimilation may not be sufficient to ensure root formation. It would be good to truncate the leaf blades even before cutting the cuttings, this will also reduce moisture loss. The cuttings are sprayed with water and placed before planting under a non-woven covering material to prevent them from wilting.

Finished cuttings are planted in pre-prepared breeding ridges, which are arranged in the shade (in most cases, the optimal illumination for successful rooting is 50-70%). The cuttings are planted at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. From above, the ridge is covered with glass, plastic wrap or non-woven covering material along arcs at a height of 25 cm from the cuttings. Each of these materials has its drawbacks - in the heat, under polyethylene and glass, the temperature can rise too much, and it is more difficult to maintain high humidity under a non-woven covering material. For most trees and shrubs, the optimum temperature is + 20 ... + 26 degrees and humidity 80-90%. The cuttings rooted in the cuttings are left in the ground, covered with a dry leaf for the winter, or dug up and stored in the refrigerator or dug in the basement, at a temperature of +1 ... +2 degrees. In the spring, the cuttings are transplanted into the "school" for 2-3 years for growing, then transplanted to a permanent place.