Dear Sirs!! Just worn out with heating. I will accept any advice and help. Thanks in advance.

Problem state:

1. When the heat carrier heats up (the pressure in the system is about 1 atm, the characteristics of the Grundfos UPS 25-80 180 mm stage 2 pump), the nearby circuits are gradually heated, the temperature in the boiler rises, but the last batteries still remain cold.

2. At some point, the near circuits also stop heating up, and all the batteries become cold, and the boiler boils.

3. Then I achieve the desired result in different ways: I feverishly twist the central plug in the pump, letting out steam and coolant, turn on and off the pump, the last time it all lasted more than 2 hours, the process is generally uncontrollable. It seems that the pump works for itself and does not pump anything, I do everything at random.

4. Then at some point suddenly everything seems to break through, the batteries ALL instantly become hot, and the temperature in the boiler drops to 60 degrees. Further, everything can remain like this and work well for several hours or again after 2-3 hours the batteries can cool down and the temperature in the boiler rises.

Heating circuit

Unfortunately, you did not indicate whether this was the first start after installation, or the heating system worked successfully before. We will assume that the design and installation were carried out correctly, the capacity of the expansion tank and the cross-sections of the pipelines are selected correctly. The floor wiring diagram you sent in is simple and should provide satisfactory circulation of the coolant. By the way, connecting the radiator on the stairs to the vertical line is irrational, the right solution would be to connect after the riser.

There may be several reasons why the temperature of the coolant periodically rises to a critical level, and the radiators remain cold:

Most often, such problems are created by a "traffic jam", air or mud. Air is emitted especially actively in the first month after filling the system; it is recommended to release it daily. An air vent (Mayevsky tap) should be installed on each heating device. Automatic air vents are mounted at the upper points of the heating mains, in the boiler room, on the boiler itself, on the collectors (judging by the diagram, you do not have them). Airing the system is the most common cause of unstable heating operation. We recommend starting the test with a thorough air release, first at the top, moving down. If the air has to be released frequently, and the pressure in the system drops, the tightness is broken somewhere.

An air vent should be installed on every radiator

A mud "plug" can also impede the free flow of the coolant. First of all, you should check the filter, if any. Also, dirt and sludge can clog air vents, especially needle (Mayevsky taps).

Such a device combines the functions of an automatic air vent and a dirt filter. Easy to maintain, ensures cleanliness and normal gas composition of the coolant

The reasons for unstable heating operation may also lie in your circulation pump. Although, more often it breaks down immediately and permanently. You can check if the pump is working by placing your hand on the body. A slight vibration should be felt. First, we recommend checking and cleaning the electrical contacts. The reason may lie in the wear of the electric motor parts or in the formation of lime deposits if untreated tap water is used as a coolant.

Theoretically, you can unscrew the plug on an idle pump and carefully turn the shaft with a screwdriver, it often helps (temporarily). You can get rid of deposits by dismantling the pump and rinsing it for 24 hours in vinegar or citric acid solution. But nevertheless, it is not easy to disassemble and maintain the circulation pump on your own without having the skill. By the way, outside the heating period, the pump should not be idle to avoid oxidation of electrical connections and blocking of the shaft. It is recommended to turn it on for 15 minutes every two to three weeks.

After long periods of inactivity, an air pocket may form in the pump. Before turning it on, you should check the presence of the necessary pressure in the system and air not only the radiators, but also the pump itself

Rare, but still possible faults in the electronics. Since the operation of the pump is controlled by the boiler controller, a malfunction in the program or incorrect operation of the sensors can negatively affect the operation of the system.

In fact, there may be several reasons why heating radiators do not heat, so it is necessary to understand the situation in each individual case. You may need qualified assistance to correct the problem. You can achieve uniform heating of radiators yourself.

What are the reasons for the incomplete heating of the radiators

There are several common causes of uneven heating of radiators. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to understand what exactly led to the existing violations.

The batteries heat up unevenly for three main reasons: incorrect calculation of the power of the boiler, heating radiators, and circulation pump. Also, mistakes made during the installation of the pipeline, omissions during the commissioning of heating.

How to eliminate uneven heat dissipation

Not all problems can be solved on your own. Poor heat transfer from the radiator may be the result of non-compliance with the slopes, indicating gross violations of the heating system installation. In this case, you will have to invite a specialist in heating systems.

Some heating problems can be fixed on their own.

• Air locks - air in the heating system is an inevitable consequence of filling pipes and radiators with coolant. A common symptom of a problem is that the radiator is warm at the bottom and cold at the top.
  If the section heats up unevenly, you can try to bleed air from the system using the Mayevsky crane. Some owners initially install an automatic air relief valve.

• Insufficient coolant circulation... If the distant batteries in the heating are barely warm, this means that the heated coolant simply does not reach the last heating device. This problem usually occurs on systems with.
  It is possible to eliminate the situation when the last battery in the heating system does not warm up by installing a circulation pump. If the injection equipment is already installed, then the circulation rate can be added. Almost every pump has three operating speeds.
• Clogged battery... If several sections of the battery are cold, then dirt has probably been brought to the junction of the "ribs". Or, in the absence of regular annual flushing of the radiators, the core is simply clogged.
  Especially often, blocking occurs with heating devices installed in the apartment. In this case, it will not work to eliminate the reason why the sections do not completely warm up, it is better to take the application to the house management.

• Incorrect operation of the heating system... It happens that the extreme sections are cold, due to the fact that the bypass is incorrectly adjusted. If the sections are not fully warmed up, it is necessary to make sure that the bypass shut-off valves are closed and block the natural circulation of the coolant.

In old heating systems, Mayevsky's tap was often not provided. If the cast iron radiators remain cold at the bottom after turning on the central heating, this indicates an airlock. The air can be removed by loosening the clamping sleeve slightly.

Does the coolant affect the quality of heating

Almost all manufacturers of heating devices unanimously recommend not to drain the coolant from the system, perhaps only as a last resort. And there is an explanation for this.

Batteries may be cold due to air pockets. Each time the system is filled, voids are formed, filled with air. Constant circulation of the coolant gradually removes air from the system, leading it out through the expansion tank or dump valves.

Therefore, it is better to use an old coolant for heating. As a result, even if at first the bottom was cold in the battery, the top was hot, and the sections differed in heating temperature, over time the situation can normalize due to the constant operation of the coolant without replacing it.

The optimal solution is to use a special heat carrier. It eats away rust and excludes clogging of pipes and radiators, which significantly affects heat transfer and uniformity of heating.

If independent efforts to achieve uniform heating of the radiator did not work, then it is clearly not worth delaying the invitation of a qualified plumber.

Kote doesn't like cold batteries.

The reasons why one battery is hot and another is cold can be global:

• bypass installed incorrectly;
• there is no balancing;
• insufficient pressure.

Bypass wired incorrectly . The bypass is a tube in front of the radiator. It connects the heated coolant supply and return flow. The last battery does not heat well if the bypass is installed too far from it. Indeed, according to the laws of physics, it will be easier for the coolant to pass through the bypass than through the entire heating element.

The bypass cuts directly into the wiring and not through the two- or three-way valve. The coolant enters the radiator through taps. As a result, the cross-section of the supply pipes decreases. There is not enough pressure in the system to push hot water through the circuit. As a result, the last heating radiator does not heat.

Often, when the heating circuit is first started up, the last battery in the house does not heat. What to do? Experts recommend not to take radical action and let the system level out. The air that is in the water must come out naturally. After a while, the heating wiring will function normally.

Error in bypass dimatr.

Incorrect radiator installation . Why is the last battery not heating? The last radiator in the heating circuit may be too large. It contains more than 12 sections. In this case, the pressure in the system is not enough to drive the coolant through the entire volume of the heating element. The situation is aggravated by lateral connection. Hot water should not reach the outermost sections. As a result, the last heating radiator does not heat well.

Incorrect balancing . Balancing the system means the uniform distribution of the coolant throughout the entire heating circuit. It is carried out using shut-off valves and thermostats. If the last battery in the heating system is cold, then, perhaps, the problem lies in the uneven distribution of hot water along the wiring.

Local causes of inoperability of the heating system

The last battery is too long.

Why is one battery hot and the other cold. Experts name the following reasons for this situation:

• airing the system;
• low quality of the coolant;
• poor quality of the heating element.

In most cases, the above problems are solved independently by the homeowners. However, the help of a specialist is never superfluous.

Airing the system . Air can collect in individual elements of the heating system. This phenomenon is called contour airing.

Air can enter the wiring:

• of ;
• if ordinary tap water was used as a heat carrier. It contains a certain percentage of dissolved air;
• the aggressive medium of the coolant oxidizes the walls ... As a result, oxygen is released. It accumulates inside, forming a plug.

It is easy to determine if there is an air lock inside the heating equipment. To do this, turn off the taps on the supply pipe and return at the same time, and then open them in complete silence. If at the moment of opening the tap there are extraneous noises and gurgling inside the device, there is an air lock. It is she who is the main reason why one battery is cold, the rest are hot.

How to remove air jams, the video will help:

Debris and rust in the heating circuit can also explain why the last radiator is cold. Foreign objects block the hot water flow, thereby reducing the heating efficiency of the house.

Why don't the batteries heat up?

You have noticed that the last battery in the home heating circuit is cold. What to do? Experts advise to first determine the nature of the breakdown. It can be both global and local. In the first case, you need to pay attention to the correct installation of the bypass and the heating element itself. The breakdown can be eliminated only by redoing the heating wiring in the house.

Local breakdowns include air locks and impurities inside the heating element. They are the main reason why the middle or last battery in the heating system is cold. These problems can be eliminated by a person without professional skills. But the help of specialists will not hurt here.

Individual heating and hot water supply have long ceased to be something unusual. It is convenient and practical, moreover, it allows you not to depend on the whims of utilities. Well, if suddenly some trouble happens, for example, it turns out that the boiler does not heat the water, then you will have to fix the breakdown on your own.

No, this does not mean that you have to arm yourself with a tool and start repairs yourself - for this there are specialized companies that provide such services. If the boiler for heating is working properly, but the water does not heat, then the specialists will repair it, adjust the boiler in accordance with your wishes, and if necessary, do it. All work will be done with high quality and a guarantee is provided.

Modern gas boilers are reliable and powerful heating devices that also perform the function of heating water. They successfully combine seemingly incompatible things - unsurpassed efficiency and compact size. But their uninterrupted operation is possible only with regular maintenance, detection and elimination of the slightest malfunctions.

Heating boilers malfunctions

Basically, major malfunctions begin to manifest themselves during the heating season, when two boiler circuits are operating - heating and water heating. It may happen that it does not start at all, or it does not heat well enough. With the launch, the issue will have to be resolved separately, but if it does not heat the water enough, then the reason may be a clogged heat exchanger. As you know, the water quality in our systems is far from ideal, and besides, few users install it in front of the boiler. So the heat exchanger becomes clogged, resulting in poor boiler operation.

Here are the most common malfunctions of gas boilers in the event of which it weakly heats the water:

• periodically turns off spontaneously,
• smokes heavily,
• does not develop enough power,
• makes noise
• clogged,
• the pump has broken.

If it happens that the gas boiler does not heat the water, then often the reason is the formation of limescale on the walls of the heat exchanger, which, as it accumulates, becomes very durable and not only lowers the water temperature, but also reduces the boiler throughput. The thermal conductivity of scale is ten times less than metal, so it is not surprising that the boiler does not heat water. If you do not take any preventive measures, then very soon you will have to completely disassemble the boiler and remove deposits mechanically.

Only timely can help this trouble, and it should be done regularly, especially if there are no purifying and softening filters installed in front of the boiler. Special chemicals are used for flushing, but they should be used with great care, since they are equally destructive to lime deposits and the material from which the heat exchanger is made. It is best to invite a specialist for this purpose.

Preventive maintenance is recommended for the safe and efficient operation of the gas boiler. It is advisable to do this regularly before the start of the heating season; you should not wait for a situation when the boiler does not heat the water. This approach will ensure a long service life and economical operation. Overhaul is carried out as needed by an employee of the service center - it is strictly forbidden to do this on your own.

One of the problems that can happen when using a double-circuit boiler. The boiler does not heat hot water. The main and most common reason why the boiler does not heat water well is that the heat exchanger is clogged.

In this article, I will describe how I treat this problem. Thus, you can also get out of the situation if you have a double-loop boiler with a plate heat exchanger.

I have a well in my house and the water is very hard, so I constantly have problems with hot water, to remedy the situation I use citric acid.

The task is as follows. How to deliver this acid to the inlet of the heat exchanger with the least effort. I found this way. At the entrance to the boiler I have a magnetic transducer, which should remove the hardness of the water, but it does not remove it, in my opinion this is fiction. But for me the good thing is that it is installed right at the entrance to the boiler. In the photo below you can see.

There is an American nut on it, unscrewing it, which you can easily pour citric acid into the pipes.

But for this you need to turn off the water. I have a collector next to the boiler. He is in the photo below.

Now all the ducts are open on it and with one light movement I shut off the water supply to the boiler.

All the water is shut off, now you can unscrew the American on the magnetic filter. And do not forget to think of something, from the flowing water from the boiler, there is not much of it, but it is there. I rolled up a rag.

Then I pour citric acid inside the pipe.

I twist the American woman back and turn on the tap to supply tap water to the boiler.

Now it is important to understand when the acid will enter the heat exchanger. Since my water tap is located a meter from the boiler, I determine whether the acid has reached the heat exchanger to taste. I just open the tap with short jerks and taste how "sour" went, which means the whole system from the magnetic filter to the tap is filled with citric acid.

Next, you need to turn off the tap so that your household does not drain all the acid ahead of time.

I fill up the system at night and until the morning I have it acidified. In the morning, I open the water supply tap to the boiler and drain all the acid. The water will sizzle at the same time, do not frighten.

The question may arise, will the acid heat exchanger not eat through? I dug on the forum of chemists and came to the conclusion that organic acid (citric acid refers to it) is harmless to copper.

I use this method as needed. If you don't like how the boiler heats the water or the pressure of hot water has become weak, I take and treat the heat exchanger with citric acid.

If you have polypropylene piping to the boiler, and there is no place to fill the acid, then think of something similar to it will not take much time.