Installing snowboard bindings. Mounting settings (rack selection). About the position of the straps

16.01.2022

In general, there are a huge number of options, since each rider chooses a convenient angle specifically for its tasks and parameters, but there are also more or less generally accepted degrees. It is about them that we will talk.

Binding angles are usually specified according to the following principle: +21°/-6°, where “+21°” is the angle of the front leg, and “-6°” is the angle of the back leg. The angle of the back leg can be either positive or negative. In any case, all styles assume that your body will be in a natural position, where the front angle is always greater than (or equal to) the back.

Consider the options when using the so-called Duck-foot rack (English) Duck station, Duckfoot), at which the front angle changes from 30° to 0°, and the rear negative from -1° to -20°.

With this setting, the front knee looks forward, and the back knee in the opposite direction. This stand is easy to use. newcomers who have not yet decided on the leading leg, in this case, they usually set the angles mirrored + 15 ° / -15 °.

You can, of course, ask a friend to suddenly push you - the leg that you put forward will be the leading one. But it also happens that during training you realize that it is much more convenient to skate forward with the other foot. If the leading foot is right, then you goofy, if left, then you Regular.

Also, such a rack is often used for jibbing(performing tricks on various figures)

In addition to mirror angles, riders use other numbers:

Stephan Babler +15/-13
Gian Simmen +15/-12
Matt Hammer +18/-12
Danny Kass +12/-9
Jamie Parker +15/-9
Gabe Taylor +18/-9
Eddie Wall +18/-6
Andrew Crawford +21/-6
Nick Drago +21/-6
Janny Meyen +21/-6

In addition to duck-foot, there are two more types of racks: carving and directed.

carving rack

It is used for high-speed descents, most often on special carving boards in combination with hard boots. Both the front and rear angles are somewhere between +70° and +35°. Such angles allow you to make very sharp and aggressive turns.

If you decide to try to carve on your regular board, then you should not make the corners so sharp - you simply won’t be able to turn over due to the board’s too wide and soft. To begin with, try to put the angle of the front leg close to +30 degrees, and the rear leg about +9 - +12 degrees. If this is not enough for you, then you can safely experiment and gradually increase the angles. Ideally: get a hard carving board and boots to get the most out of riding in this style.

Examples:

Stephen Koch +40/+30
Slalom +49.2/+47.2
Super G +49.4/+47.4
GS +49.6/+47.6
Freecarving +45/+35
Racing, asymmetrical +50/+45
Racing, symetrical +65/+6

Directional rack

The most commonly used type of stance used by most snowboarders. The binding angles vary from +40° to +15° for the front leg and between +30° and 0° for the back leg. It is not recommended to install fasteners with a difference of more than 21 °.

Examples:

Line Ostvolo +30/ 0
Barret Christy +18/+3
Amy Johnson +24/+3
Jesse Burtner +25/+3
Shaun White* +15/+4
Ross Powers +21/+9
Tricia Byrnes +21/+12

* See Burton website for other Sean White angles: +15/-6

In addition to mounting angles, there is such a thing as displacement of fasteners from the center of the board (setback). This setting is for directional boards. If you prefer off-piste skiing, then this is a must for you. By moving the bindings closer to the tail (tail), the board will float out of the snow and it will be much easier to control it in powder.

About 25mm of offset will allow for more aggressive turns, higher ollies and easier riding in powder. About 50mm: For riding in really deep snow, setting a very large offset will make the board harder to turn.

Stand Width

Usually it is equal to the distance from the floor to the middle of your kneecap, or the distance from the tips of your fingers to the elbow, there is another way to measure: the width of your shoulders plus 2.5 cm.

Leg overhang

In order for you not to face yourself in the snow when turning, you must also remember about such a parameter as the overhang of the legs. If the toe of the boot protrudes too far from the edge of the board, then you will cling to the snow with it and, accordingly, fall. Therefore, the fasteners must be placed on the board in such a way that they do not protrude beyond the edges. Only 1-1.5 cm beyond the front edge is allowed. If your feet are more than 44 (12 on the European scale) size, then you need to look for boards marked "WIDE".

In any case, everything comes with experience, so don't be afraid to experiment and try different angles, offsets and stances! The main thing is to feel free and as natural as possible. And do not forget about a screwdriver, which will help you easily change the degrees of fasteners.

The set of fasteners includes two disks, a set of bolts, the fasteners themselves. You will also need a snowboard screwdriver, or any other Phillips screwdriver.

What the mount consists of: base, gas pedals, highback, rear arc, top strap, bottom strap, disk.

The fastening clips look outward. Therefore, you can easily distinguish the right mount from the left.

Look at the disk, it shows the degrees from 0 in both directions. Additional holes in the disk are designed to adjust the position of the mounts forward and backward.

So. Which foot forward do you ride?

There is a regular stance - with the left foot forward, there is a goofy - with the right. It is difficult for beginners to decide from the very beginning. You will understand your stance in the process of riding, which foot forward will be convenient for you to ride. But there is a proven way to find out at home, which works 99%. Ask to be pushed in the back. Whichever foot you put forward is the leading one. Check several times to consolidate the result.

So, you, for example goofy. Your right foot is in front. That is, you put the right mount closer to the nose of the snowboard.

Why so many mortgages? To adjust the rack width. For some, especially in freestyle, a wide stance is more convenient, for another, on the contrary, a narrow one. To begin with, we will put a universal middle rack and select the middle mortgages.

Tincture of fasteners

Before installing the binding, be sure to measure it along with the boot. You need to adjust the gas pedals before you install the mount. Gas pedals are usually adjusted from the base. Place the boot into the binding and fasten the top and bottom straps. The toe of the boot goes way beyond the gas pedal. We need to set the gas pedal so that it reaches the very bend of the nose on the sole of the boot.

Immediately pay attention to how the mount sits on the boot. Center the straps, they should have a special adjustment on the other side of the clip. See how the slope of the highback binding is adjusted, if it needs to be further adjusted so that the highback fits better to the boot.

degrees

Degrees on the rack. To begin with, it is best to place the universal stance 15 / - 6 or 15 / 0, towards the leading foot. If you are goofy, then the right mount should be turned 15 degrees, and the left 6 in the other direction. This is the original stand. In the future, you will adjust the degree yourself until you understand which degree is the most convenient for you and remember it. For example, for freestyle, a very common stance is 15/-15, both legs are deployed equally and this allows you to ride in a switch, that is, with the other foot forward, this is convenient for tricks, landings. For speed riding, the stock 15/0 is perfect.

For sports equipment to be safe, it must be installed correctly. All parts should be fixed accordingly. Installing a binding on a snowboard is not an easy procedure, the complexity of which is related to the definition of the rack and the location of the binding. This work is described in the article.

Size selection

How to choose the size of snowboard bindings? Professionals advise choosing the binding last, after choosing a snowboard and boots. Only then will it be possible to do everything as required. Not all mechanisms are suitable for certain boots. When choosing a binding for a snowboard, stiffness is one of the main indicators. Common options to consider:

  1. Soft boots and strap fasteners. This system is flexible and versatile, so you should choose any boots. Ideal for freestyle and freeride riders.
  2. STEP-IN binding and boots with different firmness. Such a system is of excellent quality, but it should be borne in mind that not all manufacturers produce high-quality mechanisms.
  3. Rigid boots and plate bindings. The option is suitable for those who want to feel the board and adjust their movements.
  4. Boots of any kind and semi-rigid bindings fix the athlete's leg.

The rigidity of a snowboard binding is one of the important indicators that affect the quality of skiing. But in order for the equipment to be safe, other parameters must be taken into account. How to choose the size of your snowboard binding? Each manufacturer may differ. For example, when choosing a Forum mount, you need to consider the following indicators:

The size of the snowboard binding should be ideal for each athlete. To determine it, take into account the length of the foot.

Nuances of fasteners

Installing a binding on a snowboard has its own subtleties that all athletes must take into account. First you need to choose a rack that is ideal for yourself. In this case, you need to determine the goofy athlete or regular. Everything is determined by which leg will be the supporting one. For example, you can ask someone to push the athlete. The leg that will be put forward to maintain balance will be considered the supporting one.

Then you need to choose the angles of the bindings on the snowboard. The angle of inclination is determined by the professionalism of the athlete. If a person has been riding for many years, the minimum angle will suit him. For beginners, it is advisable to install the mount along the middle holes that are in the board, as well as with an average rack width and at an angle of about 90 degrees.

The composition of the fasteners

To fully install the mount on a snowboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its composition. It includes:

  1. base. All parts are attached to it, it is considered an important element of the mechanism.
  2. Thrust bearing. It fixes the heel and is usually made of durable metal. Adjustment takes place thanks to special lower side bolts.
  3. Gas pedal. It is located above the base and allows you to transfer forces to the back or front edge.
  4. Highback. It is the back of the mount. Allows you to control the board, performing better maneuverability.
  5. Straps. Firmly fix bindings and boots.
  6. Buckle. Pulls the straps to the boot and adjusts the compression of the boot.
  7. Toothed belt. Adjusts boot compression.

Each of these details is important in the whole system. These elements are installed together to ensure safe and comfortable riding. You just need to fasten them correctly.

Setting

How to install bindings on a snowboard? This procedure is carried out according to generally accepted rules. First you need to choose the installation angles. The best option is a stance when the angle is 15-25 degrees in front and 0-5 degrees in the back. You can experiment by increasing or decreasing the angle. Professional athletes advise beginners to first ride with the largest angle for mounting.

Installing the binding on the snowboard must be done so that the nose of the boot does not protrude more than 1-2 cm on the surface of the docks, otherwise the skiing will be uncomfortable. Some of the nodes on the mounts are installed with bare hands, but a Phillips screwdriver is usually used.

The gas brake pedal needs to be adjusted. Experts advise pushing the pedal as far as possible and fixing it. Pedal adjustment is determined by the size of the boots and is fixed individually. The gas pedal is best placed along the longitudinal center of the crepe. It is desirable that it fits to the toe without a gap.

The highback should have a higher level of slant than the heel counter as this affects safety and comfort. When choosing an angle for a highback, you need to know the measure: with a strong cut into the leg, pain appears. To select the optimal angle, you need to start fixing the fastener, but the thread should not be tightened to the end, since it will need to be adjusted.

Stance Width and Boot Centering

An important nuance is the centering of the rack. With it, it will be possible to fix the legs and align them in width. Proper centering will give you a better feel for the ground, which will help you make full turns.

The easiest method to achieve proper centering is to put on the boots and bindings. It is necessary to feel where the leg is located relative to the attachment discs. To have a comfortable position, you need to move your legs on the disk. If the heel is fixed, then the fastening discs should be moved.

Another tip from the pros is to properly adjust the rack width. The width is determined by the distance from the middle of one fastener to another. It is important that the width is suitable for the height of the person, because then there will be a comfortable ride.

The width of the rack is set by a simple method: the height is measured from the ground to the middle of the kneecap. This distance is the ideal rack width. It should not be changed until experience in skating appears. Professional athletes easily install all the details on their own, taking into account their riding style and other nuances.

Platform fixation

To know how to install bindings on a snowboard securely, you should familiarize yourself with the rules for fixing the platform. This work is performed after adjusting other fastening indicators. You can fix the platform in a simple way: hold it with one hand, and then remove the boot. This fixes the position of the main screws.

You can mark the points near the platform with a pencil or felt-tip pen. In this way, the ideal location of the platform is determined. The fix usually takes a few minutes. Then you can adjust the belts, which is considered the final stage.

Strap adjustment

The strap adjustment procedure should be performed after the boot is on and the legs are firmly inserted into the mount. Then they must be tightened. It is important that the straps have a margin so that there is no strong compression of the legs, because this will ensure the comfort of riding.

Sometimes a tightening of the belt is required, since this method of fixation must have a margin. The center of the strap should be on the center of the tongue of the boot, because then a perfect fit is achieved.

Conclusion

Thus, the installation of the binding is one of the important procedures that must be performed before snowboarding. Reliable fixation of all elements ensures safety and comfort.

Setting up the bindings, or stance (stance), of a snowboard is an endless variation in the possible angles and locations of the bindings. Most snowboarders have tried a wide variety of options before finding the right stance for them.

wrote this article to give some real advice and paid a lot of attention to what the difference is in different stances. I have also tried to point out (when I could) the sources from which I took the information - all the information in this article is ultimately taken from magazines, the Internet and discussions with experienced and professional riders. Unfortunately, there are many different opinions about snowboard stances and none seems to prevail. In the end, there is no "best" stance and it really comes down to personal preference. I hope this article at least helps you find a good rack for you!

Good luck, Daan Leijen.

Warning: Although I have been very careful with all the information provided, I do not accept any responsibility for its accuracy or the safety of anything presented in this article. I am not responsible for personal injury or any legal liability resulting from my advice.

Rack angles

Rack angles- fixing angles related to the width of the board. You can usually find these corners at the base of the mount. In order to change these angles, you need to unscrew the fasteners, turn the fasteners to the desired angle and screw them back. Some (rental) mounts have a simple mount locking system where you can simply press a button and change the angles. Angles are usually stated as "+21°/+6°", meaning 21 degrees front and 6 degrees back.

There is no official classification of strut angles, but I think it makes sense to break them down roughly into carving (alpine), front (forward) and duckfoot (duck) racks. Carving and front stance snowboarding styles are pretty similar - both knees and upper body pointing forward. Snowboard style with a duckfoot stance is different from previous stances, with the back knee pointing back and the upper body parallel to the board. All styles in general take into account that your body (and especially your knees) should always be in natural positions. For example, the back angle should never be larger than the front. It is clear that if this is not the case, then you will not envy your knees. (This may seem obvious to you, but I've seen people skiing off-piste with +30°/+40° angles :-)

carving rack

This stance is used for riding rigid boards (for racing or carving). These boards are stiff and narrow and have a square tail. In combination with these boards, hard boots are used and the stance angles for such boards are large: both the front and back angles are somewhere between +70° and +35°. This style allows for aggressive carving turns and is therefore well suited to racing disciplines. The stance on these boards is mainly determined by the width of the board relative to your feet (instead of some fixed angles). For good control in short turns, the difference between the front and rear angles must be at least 5°.

A-pillar

This is the most common stance used on freeride and freestyle boards. The front angle varies from +40° to +15° and the back angle is anywhere from +30° to 0°. The result is that both knees are facing forward and the shoulders are aligned with the legs. From an anatomical point of view, it is a good idea not to make a very large difference between the anterior and posterior angles, say no more than 21°. The usual setting for all mountains is +21° rake and +6° rake. Usually the more carving stance is +30°/+15° (and many might say it's also a good learning stance).

Duckfoot rack

This is somewhat uncommon stance nowadays, but is often seen in halfpipe riding. In duckfoot, the rake angle varies from 30° to 0°, while the rake angle is negative from -1° to -20°. With this setup, the front knee points forward and the back knee points back. The upper body is aligned with the board. From an anatomical point of view, it is necessary to make a fairly large angle between the angles, say more than 10 °, that is, a 0 ° / 0 ° setting will not be very good, since in this case the knees will look inward. The usual settings are "rear" +18°/-6° and "mirror" +15°/-15°.

Which angles are right for me?

Rigid boards (with flat mounts)


It's simple if you have a hard board and hard boots: use a carving stance. Currently, the angles for rigid boards are determined by the width of your board. First, install the back binding so that the toes are slightly off the board while the heels are clearly above the back edge. This maximizes the pressure you can apply to the edges of the board. The front mount must be set to the angle of the rear mount plus 8°. Later, you can change the angles slightly to make the stance the most comfortable for you.

Figure 1. The picture on the right shows a set-up with insufficient angle, especially the back leg, which is usually the main backside turn.

Figure 2 shows a setting with too much angle. This will make it harder to make quick edge changes in short to medium turns.

Regular boards (with soft boots)

95% of snowboarders who ski with soft boots should try a front stance or duckfoot. Try with normal settings and see what works best for you (and if you don't like experimenting just try +21°/+6°). Once you've found a comfortable stance, you can change the angles slightly (±3°) for fine tuning, although it's hard to feel any difference with such small changes. The most difficult choice is whether to use a front stance or a duckfoot as the style of riding is fundamentally different. With this choice, we come directly to the endless and almost religious debate about...

To duck or not to duck?

Front stance and duckfoot riding styles are fundamentally different due to the difference in how your body aligns with the board. Currently, the A-pillar is the most commonly used and is safe and a good choice. A nice benefit of the A-pillar is that you can see where you are going without turning your head. With a front stance, you will be supported by the famous Terje Haakonsen (+21°/+9°), who says that this stance allows you to have precise edge control, and Olympic champion Ross Powers, who uses angles of +21°/ +6° .

Opinions regarding duckfoot are more opposing. Many experienced snowboarders I have spoken to speak out against duckfoot because of their knee problems. They say that the force applied to the board (for example, the force of hitting the rock in your path) will be very bad for the back knee. I also heard that a Swiss medical article (which I couldn't find) reported that most hind knee injuries occur in snowboarders with zero or negative rake - of course duckfoot stance riders are doing more dangerous tricks (or overestimating their skills: -).

However, there is a good argument in favor of the duckfoot stance: it is easier (and more natural) to bend deeply at the knees. You can easily appreciate this at home, try sitting deeply with your knees bent with both feet turned slightly forward, and try it with a duckfoot stance. Since bending the knees is vital when snowboarding, maybe even a duckfoot would improve the style and be more knee and spin friendly. I have taken off-piste lessons from three different instructors in France, each of them has taught snowboarding for over 7 seasons and all of them used a duckfoot stance. At least one of them rode duckfoot after having a front stance knee injury - like I said opinions on duckfoot are varied!

Other duckfoot stance arguments are less convincing. A quick look at the angles of professional freestylers shows that about half of them use duckfoot and some say it's easier to ride in reverse (fake) with duckfoot, but this is highly debatable.

One word about caution. The duckfoot stance is bad for the back knee when your technique is wrong. Of course, this is true for any stance, but it happens more often with those who initially try to place their foot so that the knee is facing forward when the bindings are set to the duckfoot stance. You can easily spot this by looking at your knees while doing a front turn, or if your back knee gets tired quickly. It is essential that you keep your lower body aligned with the board and both knees pointing in natural directions - don't force your knees into unnatural angles!

Rack alignment

Rack centering - means your feet should always be centered and level with the width of your board. This is extremely important - once one of my mounts was not centered and it took me about a month before I figured out why my turns were not stable. When both bindings are off center it's not that bad, but your turns are inconsistent: short turns on one side, tight turns on the other. Centered stance on the other hand results in balanced turns and reduces the chance of catching an edge when the board is looking down the slope...

Legs must be centered on the board - this usually means that the binding discs are centered, but this is not at all necessary. The best way to center your bindings is to put your boots and bindings on and feel very carefully where your foot is in relation to the binding discs. You can then move both bindings to center your feet on the board. Some bindings have a fixed heel (Burton, Flow) and you have to move the discs. In other bindings, the heel can move back and forth to change the position of the boot.


Stand Width

Rack Width - the distance between the centers of both fasteners. The width of the rack mainly depends on your height. The width of the stance should be roughly equal to the distance from the middle of the kneecap to the ground, or 2.5 cm more than the width of the shoulders.

The width of the stance affects board control, and you will feel even small changes in the width of the stance. A wider stance will give stability but make it harder to change edges. The opposite is true with a smaller rack width. The wide stance is sometimes used by freestylers, while the narrow stance is more common in carving. I would recommend using a natural stance and using the default holes (if you bought a board that fits you well!). I recommend not changing the stance width much until you are an experienced snowboarder.

Height (m)

Width (cm)

Formulas for calculating rack width (Source: Hot Snowboards).

ordinary board

Rigid board

0.275 * height

0.265 * height

Rack Offset

Rack Offset- the distance between the center of both mounts and logical center boards. The logical center usually corresponds to the center of the effective edge of the board. The center of the effective part of the edge can be determined by halving the distance between the most wide board points on the nose and tail of the board (i.e. not the middle between the nose and tail of the board). The center of the fasteners is determined by finding the middle between the centers of both fasteners. Here's an easy way to determine the offset: measure the distance between the widest points on the nose with the center of the front mount (a), measure the distance of the back (b), and subtract the resulting values (a-b)- the resulting value will be the offset.

An even better way to determine the offset is to use the manufacturer's settings. Usually mortgages are marked according to the width of the rack and the offset. In this case, you can check the width of the rack by measuring the distance between the centers of the embeds. If this is correct, you need to take the middle of both holes. From here you measure the default offset in the direction of the nose of the board. Now mark these points on the board with duct tape or a pen. These points are logical center boards. Now you can easily determine the strut offset when using other embeds. This method is better than the previous one as there is asymmetric flex in modern boards, which leads to a difference between the center of the effective part of the edge and the logical center of the board.

Now, the best way to set the stance offset (and stance width) is to look at the board manual. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers include a manual with your board, but if you have a manual, there should be a large table with possible stance offsets (and widths) applicable to your board.

First, the offset should never be negative (i.e. the bindings should never be centered forward of the board). In case of centered persistent offset is zero. The board turns easily and you have good control over it. If you are using the holes recommended by the manufacturer, the mounts are slightly offset to the rear and the offset is about 25 mm, this offset is also called rear. The board behaves like it has a shorter and stiffer tail. This means you can turn more aggressively, ollie higher and the board goes better in deep snow. Riders who ride a lot of powder sometimes use a 5cm offset to ride more relaxed and not worry about the board burying its nose in the snow. However, setting the bindings too far back makes it difficult to initiate a turn and should not be used by less experienced snowboarders.

Types of racks

Rack type determines which leg is front. If you ride with your left foot forward, then you regular otherwise you goofy. About 80% of snowboarders are regulars. Choosing the right stance makes learning to snowboard a lot easier. You can only know your stance style by trying both on your first day of riding - you will immediately feel the difference! A quick test will help you a lot before you ride for the first time. Try sliding on the floor in your socks, with your front foot usually in line with your stance.

What racks do the pros use?

The following tables show degrees for angles and inches for distances. The contents of the tables are sorted by back corner, front corner and name.

Racks professional ( freestyle) snowboarders. A source: Onboard buyer's guide (2001).

Name corners Width Bias View
Jason Brown 20 duck
Stephan Babler +15/-13 21 0 duck
Gian Simmen +15/-12 21 duck
Matt Hammer +18/-12 21.5 duck
Danny Kass +12/-9 21 0 duck
Jamie Parker +15/-9 22.75 duck
Gabe Taylor +18/-9 21 duck
Eddie Wall +18/-6 21.75 0 duck
Andrew Crawford +21/-6 22 1 duck
Nick Drago +21/-6 19.5 duck
Janny Meyen +21/-6 21 duck
Katrina Voutilainen +21/-6 19.5 duck
Kyle Clancy +25/-5 22 1 duck
Ali Goulet +29/-5 19 0 duck
Vic Lawrence +30/-3 21 1 duck
Natasza Eva Zurek +18/ 0 20 1 forward
Raam Clampert +18/ 0 20.25 0 forward
Kim Christiansen +18/ 0 23 forward
Xaver Hoffman +21/ 0 20.5 1 forward
Jaime Macleod +21/ 0 19 forward
Line Ostvolo +30/ 0 20 4 forward
Barret Christy +18/+3 18.5 1.5 forward
Amy Johnson +24/+3 19.5 1.5 forward
Jesse Burtner +25/+3 21 1.5 forward
Shaun White* +15/+4 20 forward
Ross Powers** +21/+9 21 0 forward
Tricia Byrnes +21/+12 19.5 forward

*) Other Shaun White angles are given on the Burton website: +15/-6.

Racks of famous freeriders. (I would expand this table and add more riders - please email me if you know angles of good freeriders like Jeremy Jones, Gilles Voirol, Ashley Call,...).

Name corners Width Bias View A source
Victoria Jealouse +21/ 0 forward Burton
Axel Pauporte +27/ 0 20.5 forward
Name corners Width Bias View
Cri Maierhofer +30/+5 20.3 forward
Ine Pötzl +33/+5 19.1 forward
Fabo Bonacina +27/+6 21.1 forward
Berti Denervaud +24/+9 21.1 forward
Tor Bruserud +33/+9 20.7 forward
Philippe Conte +27/+15 20.7 forward

Burton team settings 2002 ( mostly freestyle). Source: Burton (2002).

Name corners Width Bias View
Shaun White* +15/-6 20 duck
Romain de Marchi +24/-6 duck
David Carrier Porcheron +15/-3 duck
Stefan Gimple +18/-3 duck
Trevor Andrew +15/ 0 forward
Jussi Oksanen +15/ 0 forward
Keir Dillon +18/ 0 forward
Gigi Ruf +18/ 0 forward
Natasha Eva Zurek +18/ 0 20 1 forward
Victoria Jealouse +21/ 0 forward
Dave Downing +18/+3 forward
Anne Molin Kongsgaard +27/+3 forward
Nicola Thost +27/+3 forward
Shannon Dunn +18/+6 forward
Jim Rippey +21/+6 forward
Johan Olofsson +27/+6 forward
Terje Haakonsen +21/+9 21 forward
Ross Powers +21/+9 21 0 forward

*) Sean White's stance angles are different from the angles given in Onboard buyer's guide: +15/+4.

Settings ( freestyle (railslide!)) members of the Forum team.

We continue to deal with basic knowledge about a snowboard and today we will talk about how to properly and conveniently screw bindings to a snowboard for you.

If you rent a snowboard, the rental employee will install the bindings on the snowboard, and he will ask you what kind of stand you have and what angle of inclination of the bindings you prefer. If you do not know, then it does not matter, all this can be found out on the spot and corrected in the future in the course of gaining snowboarding experience.

You can install the bindings on the snowboard yourself, or contact the service center. Consider how to properly install snowboard bindings at home.

Stage 1: Goofy or Regular.

Get to grips with your stance, i.e. which foot will you ride forward down the slope. There are 2 ways to find out:

1. Ask a friend to push you from behind, and whichever foot you go forward to keep you from falling, with that foot you will most likely go down the slope.

2. On a slippery floor or during ice, try to slide, whichever foot is in front will be in front of you and on the slope.

If you are a regular , then your left leg will be pointing forward. Goofy's right leg forward directed.

Stage 2. Mounting angle.

Accordingly, snowboard mounts are attached with this meaning.

The front binding attaches to the snowboard at a steep angle, typically 15 to 18 degrees.

Rear mount, either zero degrees or 3-5 degrees.

Set the bindings on the snowboard to start according to this principle, try to stand on the installed bindings in snowboard boots, tighten the straps and immediately feel whether you are comfortable or not. You can always change the angle of the mounts, even on a slope. The mounts are usually either bolted and you will need a Phillips screwdriver to adjust, or the mounts will have an easy adjustment system that does not require a screwdriver. For example, how we use special rental fasteners at the box office.

Stage 3: Rack width.

Stand Width- this is the width between the installed bindings, usually this parameter is equal to: the length from the middle of the ankle to the middle of the knee. This will be the width of the rack. Or just experiment: install the bindings, stand on the snowboard and you will understand whether it is convenient for you or you need to make the rack wider or narrower.


Stage 4: The angle of the highback (rear high part of the mount).

The angle of the highback gives you more control on the slope.

Stage 4: The position and length of the straps.

For more comfortable riding, the top of the strap should be on the top center of the ankle. Adjust the length of the strap in such a way that the boot fits snugly against the bindings, but it is comfortable for you and there is no pinching in the upper and lower zones of the strap.

And finally, advice for you : always check the fasteners before going to the slopes, it is better to check and tighten all the bolts than to sacrifice health and ruin your day off.

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